Happy B’day: Jade Jagger for Shalimar

The setting: 17th century, North India

The people: Shah Jahan & Mumtaz Mahal

The story: Dazzled by her beauty, he idolized her; so madly in love was he that he wanted to make her life a perpetual garden of delights. And so sprang from the earth the Gardens of Shalimar.

The perfume: The story of their boundless love fired the imagination of Jacques Guerlain who, in 1925, created the world’s first oriental fragrance. A subtle mix of flowers and sensual amber-woody accents, Shalimar has become the eternal essence of love and radiant femininity.

The times: Wildly Guerlain, marvelously classic, Shalimar continues to fascinate young women of today, just as it conquered every generation that came before.

The reinvention: To celebrate the 85th anniversary of this iconic fragrance, Jade Jagger has designed a collectors edition flacon. Her rendition is a bottle sculpture, with soft curves juxtaposed against contemporary lines. A blue jewel-like stopper and fine black ribbon add the finishing touch.

The price: £38.50 for 30 ml, £57.00 for 50 ml, £74.00 for 90 ml


Holy & Holistic: Discovering Ila Skincare

Yesterday, I chanced upon a divinely gorgeous brand called Ila, which felt absolutely luxuriously fabulously blissful against my skin while calling upon ‘vibrational energies’ to soothe the senses. Developed a handful of years back by Denise Leicester, a Brit who came to India and fell in love with it’s culture, traditions and flowers, it offers up a sensual medley of fragrant floral and plant extracts, natural mineral oils and Himalayan salt crystals. The word ‘Ila’ comes from the Sanskrit word for ‘earth’ and there is a sacred place in northern India at the confluence of the Sarasvati and Drishdvati rivers known as Ilayaspada, which is considered to be extremely holy.

In keeping with it’s name, the brand is devoted to the ancient practises that respect the sanctity of Mother Earth while calling upon it’s healing energies. According to the founder, “Everything in our products comes from a plant or mineral – nothing else.” But the brand goes even beyond the merely organic – ensuring an exceptionally high degree of purity in every ingredient. All the products are entirely free of synthetic chemicals and are crafted by sourcing the finest ingredients directly from local producers who cultivate and harvest the raw ingredients in harmony with nature.

For example, the Rose Damascena from India (below), which forms a core ingredient in many of the signature products, comes from a family that has been growing and distilling roses for many generations according to a centuries-old methods. The water is drawn by solar energy, then mixed with petals in copper vats and heated by natural fire-fuel. The spent petals are fed to the cows, completing a cycle that begins and ends with nature. The end result is a distillate of Rose Otto with a depth, a richness of scent that is so potent, I can smell the fragrance and feel it’s silken touch a full 12 hours after washing the Body Balm for Feeding Skin and Senses off my skin!

Similarly, the Argan Oil from Morocco (below) is made by a womans’ co-operative whose skills have been passed on down the Berber generations. It’s crushed, filtered and cold-pressed in the way it always has been, using many hands and just a few simple mechanical aids. The brand owners eschew middle-men, choosing instead to travel and handpick the “purest sources” by themselves, which lays the foundations for fair trade. The reason? “The purer the source and the process, the purer ila’s products will be and the more suffused with the earth’s natural healing energy.”

The products themselves are artisanal and hand-blended in an environment of peace and purity, accompanied by the rhythm of energy and balance-imbuing chants, in the English countryside. This is to imbue the finished holistic products with all the pure vibrational energies of nature that work in consonance with the therapeutic ingredients “to improve natural beauty through the health and vitality of our skin, to increase well-being through the transforming effects of energy healing, and to connect to a greater sense of inner serenity.”

The products have garnered a number of awards and are available at premium outlets across the world (including the Four Seasons Spa in Mumbai, which also offers up terrific spa rituals based around the same,  for the benefit of Indian connoisseurs). Prices normally start at approximately Rs. 2,000 (or 35 British pounds, depending on which part of the world you are based).

Business as Unusual: Remembering Anita Roddick, aka the Grand Dame of Body Shop

“If you think you’re too small to have an impact, try going to bed with a mosquito”: So believed Anita Roddick, legendary founder of the Body Shop, who died on this day (September 10), three years ago. Her legacy, however, has become timeless – not just in the shape of a brand that scores top marks for our skincare needs but also for bringing an unthought lexicon like “fair trade” and “disadvantaged children” into the annals of the beauty business. Here are some bits you might not know about this quirky pioneer of ethical consumerism:

– She was born as Anita Lucia Perilli in a bomb shelter in Little Hampton, Sussex, in an Italian immigrant community; her mother, Gilda, ran a café.

– After leaving school, she trained as a teacher. In 1962 she received a scholarship to study in a Kibbutz in Israel, but was expelled after a pranking incident. She then started saving money and travelling across the world, including Tahiti, Australia and South Africa. She even started going to school in South Africa but was expelled there as well after going to a jazz club on black night, violating apartheid laws.

– She married Gordon Roddick in 1970; by this time, they already had one child and were expecting another. The couple opened a restaurant, followed by a hotel.

– She founded the first Body Shop (simply called The Shop) in Brighton, in 1976. It was very basic, offering only 15 products, which contained ingredients that women used in cleansing rituals that she had witnessed during her travels. In 1993 she told Third Way magazine very honestly: “The original Body Shop was a series of brilliant accidents. It had a great smell, it had a funky name… We knew about storytelling then, so all the products had stories. We recycled everything, not because we were environmentally friendly, but because we didn’t have enough bottles. It was a good idea…  It wasn’t a sophisticated plan, it just happened like that!”

– Roddick was passionate for her campaigning work on environmental issues and worked for the United Nations, for which she traveled extensively and met people from a number of different cultures. She founded Children On The Edge (COTE) in 1990, in response to her visits to Romanian orphanages. Roddick also created the book Take It Personally, encouraging equality and an end to the exploitation of workers and children in underdeveloped countries.

– On 17 March 2006, L’Oréal purchased Body Shop for £652 million. This sparked several controversies, because L’Oréal is involved in animal testing and the company is part-owned by Nestlé, which has been in the eye of some storms for its treatment of third world producers. Anita addressed it head-on in an interview with The Guardian, which reported that “she sees herself as a kind of ‘Trojan horse’, who by selling her business to a huge firm will be able to influence the decisions it makes.”

– Sam, her younger daughter, owns and runs the upmarket and ethical sex shop – Coco De Mer.
– In 2003, Queen Elizabeth II appointed Roddick a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire.

– In 2004, Roddick was diagnosed with liver cirrhosis due to long-standing hepatitis C, which she had contracted after a blood transfusion. Her reaction? “I have hepatitis C. It’s a bit of a bummer, but you groan and move on.” She promoted the work of the Hepatitis C Trust and campaigned to increase awareness of the disease.

– Roddick died of a major acute brain haemorrhage on 10 September 2007. She left her estate to charities that continue her work till today.

Van Cleef & Arpels Oriental Adventure

In 1976, Van Cleef & Arpels became the first jewellery House to create its own fragrance, aptly entitled First. And now comes Oriens, a new fragrance that pays perfect homage to the brand’s fascination and mastery over the Oriental aesthetics by evoking “the ever-changing mystery and magic of the exotic silk route to Asia”.

Perfumer Bernard Ellena has peppered the chypre fruity floral fragrance with fleshy red fruit and transparent petals, giving it a sensual aura: Top notes of mandarin, raspberry and blackcurrant transport the senses into a garden where colours and light collide in thousands of different ways; while the heart of this olfactory journey promises another world, with notes of sunlight conjuring up an incandescent azure blue on the horizon. Jasmine petals overflow into a caress of voluptuous rain and, finally, majestic patchouli makes its appearance, enhanced with praline, developing in the base of the trail with a captivating air, like the legends of the Orient. The entire creation brims with opulence, “leaving a thousand suns in its wake, to keep the most treasured dreams sparkling forever”.

And that’s not all. The bottle’s designer, Joël Desgrippes, modelled the flacon after a ring design from Van Cleef & Arpels’ fine jewelry collection: A mammoth tourmaline set in white gold, like a flower surrounded by diamond-studded leaves. Just like the colour of this precious stone, the colour of the bottle defies definition – throwing up a symphony of pink, red and green nuances that light up the skin with their iridescent facets. Truly a treasure worth coveting!

Price: Rs. 4,600 / US$110 for 50 ml

Smell Yourself Thinner

Women who wear a spicy, floral fragrance come across as almost 10-12 pounds (5-6 kgs) thinner than they actually are, according to recent research conducted by Chicago’s Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation. What better excuse could there be to go on a perfume buying binge? Try Hermès Un Jardin Après la Mousson, Chanel’s Chance or Lancôme’s Miracle to appear sleeker and slimmer in an instant!

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