Mysore Sandal Soap: A Tale of Exoticism, Evolution and Extinction

July 30, 2011 By 1 Comment

The year was 1916 and the princely Indian State of Mysore, which was the world’s largest supplier of sandalwood and sandalwood oil, had a mammoth problem on it’s hands – with the First World War in full swing, there was no way to export the kingdom’s excessive sandalwood reserves to Europe. That’s when Nalvadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the king of Mysore, came up with a historical solution – to set up the Government Soap Factory in Bangalore, which would produce soap crafted from pure sandalwood oil. A factory to distill sandalwood oil from the wood was set up at Mysore in the same year.

Mysore Sandal Soap soon garnered a cult following worldwide and even Queen Victoria rated it as her favourite skincare product. Crates full of the innocuous bars were regularly shipped to the monarch in England and to this day Mysore Sandal Soap enjoys the distinction of being in use within the royal palaces of the United Kingdom.

Mysore Sandal Soap soon garnered a cult following worldwide and even Queen Victoria rated it as her favourite skincare product

The soap’s secret lay in its simple formula – a faultless blend of  pure vegetable ingredients and natural sandalwood oil. Till date, it holds the distinction of being the only 100% pure sandalwood oil soap available in the world.

Sandalwood Sticks

And this is no small feat, considering that Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) is rated as the highest quality worldwide. This precious material has also been revered for centuries in this country due to it’s immense beauty and health benefits. A small sampler: It helps in the reduction of acne and stretch marks, relieves both inflammation and itching, has anti-ageing properties, imparts a soothing, toning and moisturising effect, prevents marks and scars on the face and defends against skin rashes.

It is also one of the oldest known perfume materials in the world and has a calming effect on the body. This makes it a major element in meditation and some forms of yoga even use it for awakening sexual energy. In fact, so potent are its powers that in Hinduism this precious wood forms the cornerstone of all rituals – right from being offered to Gods and Goddesses to serving as a metaphysical purifier for brides and grooms during wedding ceremonies.

Till date, Mysore Sandal Soap holds the distinction of being the only 100% pure sandalwood oil soap available in the world

However, soaring international demand (sandalwood oil prices have risen to US$1,000–1,500 per kilogram) means that Indian sandalwood has become a threatened species. Every single tree in the country is now government-owned and their harvest is controlled; however illegal poaching is destructively rampant. Regeneration is difficult as sandalwood is a slow-growing species and a tree must be over 30 years old before it can be used for the production of oil.

In fact, the declining availability of pure sandalwood oil means that the Mysore Sandalwood Soap, whose formula and packaging remains the same as it was almost a century ago, is gradually becoming difficult to produce in large quantities. Truly ironical for a product whose life began with the intention of using up excessive raw materials!

Hopefully, someone will find a solution to this dilemma soon. Till then, it’s safer to stock up on these bars if you relish their exotic classicism!

The declining availability of pure sandalwood oil means that the Mysore Sandalwood Soap, whose formula and packaging remains the same as it was almost a century ago, is gradually becoming more difficult to produce in large quantities

Sandalwood Trees in Mysore


Filed Under: Ayurveda, Organic, Skincare Tagged With: , , , ,

Mistero: An Italian Perfume Based on Basmati Rice

July 29, 2011 By Leave a Comment

Basmati rice in a perfume? That was definitely a first for me and the reason I initially gravitated towards the display of Calé Fragranze d’Autore when in Milan this time. And this is where I discovered Mistero – the heavenly men’s fragrance that has become a staple on my husband’s dresser.

Dry, woody and fiery, this robust composition is fabulously peppered with the smokey, balsamic woodiness of agarwood, which melds with a comforting semi-sweet distilled rum accord. To this are added hints of Basmati rice, saffron, mint, rhubarb, pimento and hazelnut – all of them combining to create a warm, resinous and spicy composition that carries with it the nuances of a precious distilled liquor and conjures up smoky campfires that have been dampened by the rains… the same rains, probably, which drench India’s rice fields to nourish the precious Basmati.

Mistero carries with it the nuances of a precious distilled liquor and conjures up smoky campfires that have been dampened by the rains

Distinguished by its long, slender grains, Basmati rice has been grown in India since the 19th century and is revered due to its nutty aroma and delicate, nuanced flavour. Its name means “the fragrant one” in Sanskrit, and Basmati is the world’s most sought-after rice because of its alluring smell – it can fetch 10 times the price of other rice grains. India, happily, is the largest producer of this aromatic and flavourful goldmine.

And this is the note that appears half-way through Mistero’s development – slightly powdery and comforting – made even more interesting by the presence of spices. This is the perfect olfactory tale for a boutique brand whose creations are inspired by stories and narratives. Silvio Levi, President of Calé, calls the creations “olfactory poetry”, aimed at people who like to “listen” to perfumes and follow the narrative that unfolds from within. Italian nose Maurizio Cerizza has beautifully interpreted Levi’s stories, transforming them into stirring perfumed poems that raise this boutique Italian brand head-and-shoulders above today’s far-too-generic and commercial compositions. Mistero, for me, is just the beginning of a storyline I hope to explore more deeply in the coming days!

Its name means ‘the fragrant one’ in Sanskrit, and Basmati is the world’s most sought-after rice because of its alluring smell – it can fetch 10 times the price of other rice grains. India is the largest producer of this aromatic and flavourful goldmine

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A Sartorial Scent: Jimmy Choo EDP

July 28, 2011 By Leave a Comment

Jimmy Choo’s debut Eau de Parfum is proof that fashion, beauty and design are all inextricably intertwined. Symbolic of the luxury of Jimmy Choo and influenced by Tamara Mellon’s (Founder and Chief Creative Officer) personal taste for antique and modern objects, the exquisite amber bottle is inspired by jewel-coloured Venetian Murano glass, which itself is evocative of the many jewel encrusted Jimmy Choo stilettos to walk the most celebrated red carpets. The faceted, cocoon shape is voluptuously feminine, embracing the sensual liquid inside.  “It was very important for me to create a beautiful and precious bottle which is an object of desire that women will want to keep forever,” says Tamara. “I love the way the light and subtlety of colour is reflected through the facets of the glass.” Recognising the importance of marrying tradition with contemporary design, the orb-shaped bottle is capped with a silver-edged black cube, striking a note of graphic modernity.

The exquisite amber bottle is inspired by jewel-coloured Venetian Murano glass, which itself is evocative of the many jewel encrusted Jimmy Choo stilettos to walk the most celebrated red carpets

There’s nothing sexier and exotic than snakeskin, a luxe material that has become synonymous with Jimmy Choo shoes and accessories as a deluxe expression of the brand. Inspired by a python skin shoe in the current collection, snakeskin now lends itself to decorating the outer box that envelops the fragrance flacon. Realized in the house’s vintage rose tone, the box, with its chic brand monogram, alludes to the ultimate desirability of the fragrance inside. The fragrance itself is a modern Fruity Chypre with warm, rich, woody depths. With its green top note, heart note of tiger orchid, and base note of toffee and sensual Indonesian patchouli, it comprises equal measures of female empowerment and elegance, evoking glamour, confidence, desire and refined sexuality that perfectly captures a piece of the Jimmy Choo dream.

Inspired by a python skin shoe in the current collection, snakeskin now lends itself to decorating the outer box that envelops the fragrance flacon

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Get the Look: JJ Valaya at Delhi Couture Week

July 27, 2011 By Leave a Comment

For beauty-spotters, JJ Valaya has been the clear winner in this year’s edition of Delhi Couture Week. The flamboyant designer’s show on the opening day highlighted the “evolving palette of still images” through a collection called Tasveer, which depicts his favourite photography that has been converted into designs and garments. Replete with saris,lehangas, anarkalis, and overcoats embellished in semi-precious stones, crystals and digital prints, this luxe collection was offset by bold lips and creamy, rustic eyes – perfect for the traditional-yet-modern bride. This is one look that’s sure to be copied over and over again through the wedding and festival season this year, so we got the makeup mavens at MAC (who created the enchanting faces) to spill the beans on how to recreate the effect:

MAC Face Chart for JJ Valaya

This is one look that’s sure to be copied over and over again through the wedding and festival season this year, so we got the makeup mavens at MAC (who created the enchanting faces) to spill the beans on how to recreate the effect

Key Products:

How to Get the Look: 

1. Spritz Fix + generously over the face

2. Heavily moisturise the entire face with Studio Moisture Cream

3. Apply Studio Sculpt Foundation all over the face

4. Contour the entire face (cheek bones, jawline and temples) with Mineralize Skinfinish Powder in a shade darker than own skintone

5. Apply Blush in Coppertone onto the cheeks

6. Apply Cream Colour Base in Root all over the eyelid

7. Blend Eyeshadow in Rule into the socket bone

8. Apply Eye Kohl in Smolder and Teddy along the lower and upper lash line

9. Generously coat lashes with Zoomlash Mascara in Zoomblack

10. Apply #7 Lashes

11. Define brows with an eyebrow pencil similar to your hair colour

12. Line and fill lips with Lip Pencil in Brick

13. Apply Lipstick in Russian Red all over lips

All products mentioned above are from MAC

Filed Under: Beauty, Blush, Celebs, Foundation, Makeup, Mascara, Powder, Trend Watch Tagged With: , , , , ,

The Story of Sindur

July 27, 2011 By 3 Comments

Forget the stick-on bindis and the multicoloured forehead adornments –nothing can compare with a pinch of authentic sindur for a classic vision of Indian womanhood. This vermillion powder, smudged into the hair parting, reflects marital status and cannot be worn by an unmarried girl or widow. It symbolises that the husband of the woman is alive and she is enjoying his love, care and guardianship.

According to mythology, red is the colour of power while vermilion is a symbol of the female energy of Parvati and Sati. The latter is regarded as the ideal wife who gave her life for her husband’s honour and every Hindu wife is supposed to emulate her. It is also believed that Goddess Parvati protects all men whose wives apply sindur on a daily basis.

This vermillion powder, smudged into the hair parting, reflects marital status and cannot be worn by an unmarried girl or widow

This practise carries astrological significance as well. According to Hindu astrology, Mesha Rashi (House of Aries) is on the forehead. Mars is the the Lord of Mesha and his colour is red. Hence, wearing this colour on your forehead is believed to be auspicious.

However, there is also no lack of cynics. Feminists, who eschew any symbol that “brands” a woman as married joke that sindur was devised as another means of overbearing modesty, covering even that tiny fraction of her anatomy from the gaze of anyone but her husband! And it’s interesting to note that this traditional act carries physiological significance as well: Sindur is prepared by mixing turmeric, lime and the metal mercury. Mercury, it is well established, controls blood pressure and activates sexual drive, especially when applied pto the pituitary gland where all our feelings are centered. Maybe this is why sindoor is prohibited for the widows?

Feminists, who eschew any symbol that “brands” a woman as married joke that sindur was devised as another means of overbearing modesty, covering even that tiny fraction of her anatomy from the gaze of anyone but her husband

Whatever the reasons, this vermillion powder has been a part of Indian culture since at least the past 5,000 years. Excavations at Mehrgarh, Baluchistan, show that it was applied to the partition of women’s hair even in early Harappan times. And even though contemporary brides like moi don’t really bother with it on a daily basis in today’s day and age, it’s definitely a beautiful tradition that comes out in full play during festivals and weddings.

Intrigued? You can mix up a small batch of your own with this simple yet completely authentic recipe from Almond Eyes, Lotus Feet: Soak sticks of turmeric overnight and scrape off skin with a sharp knife. Grind together two teaspoons each of papadhkar and drumsticks (savaghi), finely sieve and mix with lemon juice. Apply to turmeric sticks, which will turn red. Grind sticks into sindur powder.

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