Happy 150th Birthday Bourjois… and a journey down memory lane!

Look what I got in the mail today… a gorgeous, gorgeous candle to celebrate Bourjois’ 150th birthday :)

IMG_5623But wait… 150th birthday?? I never realised Bourjois was that old a brand. Really. Which set me thinking about what else I did not know about this chic and quirky Parisian makeup house. Quite a lot it seems: for instance, the fact that Bourjois created the world’s first powder blush. Or that it once had 124 perfumes. Or even that it used to make toothpaste and cigarettes. I am guessing not too many of you know these stories either, so here’s a look at 150 fascinating years of Bourjois history. Tell me, which is the fact that surprises you the most?

Did you know that Bourjois created the world’s first powder blush? Or that it once had 124 perfumes? Or that it used to make toothpaste and cigarettes?

1. Bourjois was born when Joseph-Albert Ponsin, part actor and terrific cosmetologist, opened a shop at 28 Place Vendome in Paris to sell perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. The boutique was soon purchased by Alexandre-Napoléon Bourjois and renamed after him. By 1898, the business was in the hands of Ernest Wertheimer – who also owned the perfume division of Chanel.

tumblr_locv6dfxeC1qh70jmo1_5002. The first creations were waxy makeup sticks with quirky names like Jealous or Lovesick, specially created for theatre.

1880-Batons-pour-le-grime3. In 1863, Bourjois created the world’s first powder blush based on a complex recipe: combine a careful amount of of powder and water, mix it delicately, pour it into rounded moulds and put it in the oven to bake. Now, 150 years later, the little round pot of Bourjois blusher is still one of the brand’s bestselling lines.

honey-kennedy-vintage-bourjois-blush-18814. By 1898, the Bourjois catalogue had over 700 items, including makeup for cheeks, for eyelids, rice powders, polishes, lipsticks and Indian tablets that were the ancestors of mascara. Then there were “perfume extracts for the handkerchief,” “perfumed sachets to put inside slippers,” toothpastes, hair lotions, perfumed cigarettes… and even a “Hungarian pomade” to help arrange a gentleman’s moustache!

ashes345. The invention of a ”mini” Ladies’ Friend collection in the late 19th century made Bourjois a pioneer of the “makeup on-the-go” concept. This ultra-thin makeup kit had a moiré palette and built-in mirror, a mini push-up lipstick in a deep red shade, a mini face powder and a small powder puff in swan’s-down material – all packaged in and elegant and avant-gardist mini case that could be slipped into a handbag.

1930-Coffret-nuancier-fard-pastel6. In 1907, Bourjois diversified into perfume with Manon Lescaut. One of the most successful was the amber-floral-spicy Soir de Paris (Evening in Paris), created by Ernest Beaux – the “nose” behind Chanel No. 5. It’s midnight blue bottle is highly valued by today’s collectors.

16503-bourjois-1964-soir-de-paris-hof-eiffel-tower-hprints-com7. Foreshadowing their mastery of the quirky and the coloful, Bourjois developed hundreds of Evening in Paris boxes during the 1930s. Each box contained varying combinations of make up and perfume, with the most splendid one being a musical version that still plays Forever and Ever when you turn the key.

8. By 1974, Bourjois had introduced 124 fragrances, with many of the bottles made by Baccarat and Cristalleries de Saint-Louis.

12939-bourjois-1957-ramage-hprints-com9. Initiating “story-telling” marketing, Bourjois told about the adventures of “Babette” in 1924. She was a young and elegant imaginary woman, who became the heroine of over 200 short, punchy titles such as Babette Exterminates Some Statues, Babette in Trouble! and Babette and the Reluctant Fiancé.

1927-Babette-a-Deauville10. Bourjois continues to invent and innovate well into the 21st century, with masterpieces like the Coup de Théâtre mascara, the first double-ended mascara and Suivez Mon Regard, a loose powder eyeshadow in a clever box that delivers the right amount of powder onto the built-in brush. Today, the emphasis is on color – ranging from neutral shades to vivid hues – and making Parisian style accessible to women across the world. The Bourjois catalogue includes over 400 shades and that 100 of these are renewed every year. And for collectors who just can’t resist those original iconic Little Round Pots, Bourjois regularly launches limited edition vintage series.


June Beauty Must Haves: Things You Need to Own this Month

With the hundreds of beauty products launching every month, it’s not easy knowing exactly which skin serum, nail polish or perfume you should spend your hard-earned cash on. Let me take the guesswork out of beauty shopping for you with a short list of The-Beauty-Gypsy-approved absolute must-haves.

Aesop-Marimekko Sauna Duet

june-beauty-aesop-marimekkoWhat happens when a fabulous Australian beauty brand joins hands with a Finnish textile giant? You get a refreshing, limited edition body scrub and body balm duo all wrapped up in a beautiful Marimekko-designed Vellamo print cotton bag. Perfect for getting your skin in tip-top shape this summer! $75

Crabtree & Evelyn Somerset Meadow

june-beauty-crabtree-somerset-meadowDescribed as ‘an aromatic impression of a beautiful English landscape in bloom’, Somerset Meadow has a fruity-floral fragrance laced with greenness. It’s replete with sparkling bergamot, dew-kissed blackberry buds, the bitter greens of ivy and fern, white blossoms, water lily, earthy geranium, creamy clouds of musk, willow and moss… a very pretty scent whose sweetness is evident without being overwhelming. In fact, this is actually an almost-clean fragrance on me once it settles – just the way I want a summer bath-time ritual to feel like. $18 upwards

Tatcha Gold Collection

june-beauty-tatcha-goldVictoria Tsai built Tatcha by studying the closely guarded beauty secrets passed down through generations of Japanese geishas. Her latest addition is the Tatcha Gold Collection, an homage to the first geisha she ever met, who would scratch gold flecks from her papers and rub them onto her lips for added glow. In her honor, Tsai has created a camellia-based beauty oil and lip balm that’s laced with gold leaf from Kyoto. Tsai recommends applying the Camellia Beauty Oil to the face just after washing, and to the hair from the middle to the tips, avoiding the roots. Camellia Beauty Oil, $125, and Camellia Nourishing Lip Balm, $36

Kama Ayurveda Pure Sandalwood Water

june-beauty-kama-sandalwoodThis Ayurveda-inspired brand is gradually taking over the world, cutting a swathe through luxe resorts and spas (including Aman Bagh, Aman Kora, The Four Seasons Hotel Maldives and The Mandarin Oriental New York). It’s latest offering: Pure steam-distilled sandalwood water that has a whole lot of uses. Sandalwood water is prescribed in Ayurveda as a natural astringent, which is both refreshing and hydrating. It also has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. However, to me, the greatest benefit is its harmonizing and calming effect on the tensions and stresses of daily living. Surround yourself in its cooling vapors during hot and chaotic summer afternoons; spray the water at night to calm the nervous and circulatory system, relax your mind and ensure a sound sleep. $16 / INR 825 for 200ml

Clarins HydraQuench Cream Mask

june-beauty-clarinsOne to ponder: did you know that the vital statistics for perfectly moisturised skin are 80-70-13? Which means that you need 80% water in the dermis, 70% in the epidermis and 13% in the horny layer? Drop below these percentages and skin will look more drab than fab. Which is why Clarins has reformulated the new HydraQuench Cream-Mask with two types of Hyaluronic Acid for a serious moisture hit. Bid goodbye to dry and tight skin for good! $40

Fresh Sugar Shine Lip Treatment

june-beauty-freshI unashamedly confess to being in love with everything Fresh – especially their sugar-tinged balms that are spiked with plumping blackcurrant oil, antioxidant-rich grapeseed polyphenols, and vitamins A, C, and E. And just when I thought the brand had exhausted the possibility of lip-based innovations, it’s come up with the Sugar Shine Lip Treatment. Billed as a shine-enhancer, rather than a gloss, the nourishing formula bolstered by cupuaçu and mango butters goes on velvety smooth, without any trace of stickiness – a God-send for lip lacquering. The familiar faintly citrus scent of the original balms is also present, as is the signature blend of reparative oils. I am already stocking up! $18.50

Aerin Seashell Collection

june-beauty-aerinJust in time for summer, Aerin has launched this beautiful new collection, guaranteed to keep you looking bronzed and beautiful. The makeup is divine, incorporating a sophisticated neutrals palette, illuminating bronzer, natural lipsticks and shiny glosses. But it’s the Beach Cream for Hair & Body that’s the true pièce de résistance, adding a super-subtle shimmer to both tresses and skin. Plus, there is the delicious floral scent. It’s already tucked away in my suitcase, ready to go. $45

Alber Elbaz for Lancôme

june-beauty-lancomeSometimes a girl needs something to brighten up a morning makeup routine. Enter Alber Elbaz’s whimsical new Lancôme makeup line: the packaging is super-cute and who doesn’t love the way Mr Elbaz has the ability to make everything seem fun and approachable? In an interview with WWD, Elbaz explained why he chose eyes as the focus of his makeup debut: “Once I was in a fancy place where there was this group of people that were all shining. The shoes were shining, the hair was shining, the skin, watches and diamonds — but the eyes were not shining. I thought if I were to do a project I would love to do a ‘happy eye’ project to make the eyes shine.” Happy eyes! How cute is he? $29 upwards

Estee Lauder Double Wear Stay-in-Place Powder Makeup SPF 10

june-beauty-estee-lauder-foundationThis compact powder foundation is perfect for creating a flawless, semi-matte finish that lasts all day. It’s chockfull of oil-free, oil-controlling ingredients that have serious all-day staying power, even through heat and humidity. Added bonus: it now comes in even more shades than before. $44INR 2,535

Body Shop Colour Crush Collection

june-beauty-body-shopStriking neutrals, chic nudes, rich browns, fierce pinks, powerful purples, brilliant blues and gorgeous greens… The Body Shop has travelled the world to source rare pigments, triple-filtered and expertly milled them, then blended them with community fair trade oils to create a brilliant and deeply pigmented base for their new Colour Crush eyeshadows. The result? Raw colour, maximum impact and a truly fashion-forward palette of mono eyeshadows in a full array of the season’s must-have stand-out shades. $10INR 695

Butter London Pitter Patter

Butter-London-Pitter-PatterAfter Waity Katie and No More Waity, Katie, there is now a limited edition shade for the royal baby-to-be: Pitter Patter. The polish was named after an expression used by doting grannies hoping for grandchildren: “Will we hear the pitter patter of little feet soon?”. I was secretly hoping the shade would give us a slight hint to the baby’s sex (bright pink!), but the gorgeous aubergine shimmer could go either way. $15

Givenchy Dahlia Noir L’eau fragrance

june-beauty-givenchyThere’s really nothing that beats the aromatic appeal of waltzing through a lush garden, except perhaps bottling up all those fresh elements into a gorgeous perfume – like Givenchy’s latest fragrance by Dahlia Noir. Bursting with sunshine and freshness, it’s a delicate yet sophisticated floral scent of citrus and musky top notes. It’s what I am spritzing on every day – this is true love. $90£42.75

Moschino Cheap & Chic

june-beauty-moschinoDespite all the grand and complex perfume that I own, sometimes nothing hits the spot like one of Moschino’s zesty Cheap & Chic fragrances. The latest bottle, Chic Petals, showcases a red and white colour scheme in the classical quirky shape of Popeye cartoon character Olive Oyl. With top notes of strawberry, pomegranate and ginger and middle notes of orchid and iris, this is one sparkly and fun fragrance that will see you through the summer months in true Cheap & Chic style. $48 upwards

Diptyque Candle in Jonquille

june-beauty-diptyqueThis spring-scented candle’s fresh, floral aroma literally smells like a bouquet of daffodils, freshly picked from what I imagine was some glorious garden in the French countryside. $60

Nest White Narcisse Classic Candle

june-beauty-nestThe perfect way of bringing home the French countryside – complete with mimosa, jasmine, narcissus, and sandalwood – all wrapped up in stunning sculptural glass. This candle is terrific for illuminating alfresco dinner parties or creating a soft glow for private reflections. $48

10 top tips to make your face look thinner (No contouring!)

Gained a few pounds? Pre-disposed to bloating? Have a round face that makes you look heavier than you are? Try these simple makeup, hair and accessory tips to create the illusion of a much slimmer face.

make-face-thinner1. Make your eyes pop

Bigger eyes equal slimmer face. So, apply a neutral shimmer to the inner corners of the eyes. Next, glide a dark brown, gray or black pencil liner across the entire upper lash line. Skip liner on the bottom lash line: it’ll make your eyeslook smaller. Curl lashes and apply two coats of volumizing black mascara.

Another eye look that slims the face: a cat’s eye. This helps elongate the lash line and eye shape in an outward and upward direction, thereby drawing attention to the corners and making your face look leaner.

2. Fill in your brows

Thick, angular brows can help your face appear thinner by adding contour and a point of interest. On the other hand, thin, over-tweezed brows can contribute to a rounder-looking face. The Rx: Use a brow pencil or shadow one shade lighter than your natural eyebrow color to fill in the brows.

3. Go deep!

A pressed matte powder that’s one shade darker than your skin can be a round-faced girl’s best friend. Here’s how to make it work: Lightly shade the jawbone, sides of the nose and temples with only a hint of product; it should be barely noticeable.

4. Add some shimmer

Apply a translucent shimmer powder or cream with fingertips along your cheekbones and collarbone. Highlighting bone structure reflects light, making it more noticeable (thus making you look thinner).

5. Pick the right part

Opt for a side part – a center part makes your face look round. A good rule of thumb to find the most flattering, face-slimming part: Use the arch of your eyebrow as a guide. Start the part above the arch and go back from there in a straight line.

make-face-look-thinner6. Rethink your bangs

Soft, side bangs create a natural frame around the face, while longer layers downplay a rounder shape. But skip short bangs, which make your face seem wider and rounder.

7. Add volume

Hair that lies too flat on the head makes a full face appear even bigger. Add slight volume in the crown to slim a round face. How? Lightly tease the hair near the crown; keep the rest smooth and past your shoulders for a sleeker look.

8. Do an updo or a mid-height ponytail

Building extra height at the crown of your head narrows round features and makes your face seem thinner. For the simplest ‘do, twist hair into a high knot and fasten with a barrette. Or try a pony – for the most slimming effect, match the ponytail height to the tips of your cheekbones.

9. Color your hair darker around your face

Lighter, face-framing highlights open up the face, making it appear wider. Darker tones, on the other hand, have a slimming effect. So keep the strands closest to your face a shade or two darker than the rest of your locks.

10. Think long jewellery and rectangular shades

Long, dangly earrings and sleek pendant necklaces elongate and slim the face and body with their vertical lines. Almost any style works, but avoid hoops that hang from below your ears; hoops that go through your ears will do the trick, though.

And score face-slimming shades: If your face is on the full side, wide rectangular-frame sunglasses give you a sleeker look.

The Great Gatsby: What’s in Daisy Buchanan’s Makeup Bag?

It’s pretty safe to say that Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby is this year’s most anticipated movie – and I can assure you that we won’t be seeing the end of Flapper-inspired beauty trends anytime soon. So, you might want to stock up on Daisy Buchanan’s (aka Carey Mulligan) makeup bag to see you through the season.

great-gatsby-makeup

What’s in Daisy Buchanan’s Makeup Bag? Illustration by Kristina Hultkrantz (www.emmakisstina.com)

Quite a riot, isn’t it? After all, 1920s was the decade in which our beauty culture was born. With powders, blushes, shadows and lipsticks hitting the mainstream for the first time, women turned to cosmetics to play up their femininity. And it was just in time, with the men returned home from World War I and the women beginning to enter the workplace. Could there be a better excuse for OTT make up?

Baz Luhrmann certainly agrees: ”Two years earlier, women would have had dresses down to their ankles. And suddenly they’re wearing their underwear as a frock out on the street. They’re liberated. They’re smart, they’re educated. They’re meeting in speakeasies, they’re drinking alcohol. The big party has begun. And it hasn’t stopped.”

In short, the Great Gatsby-era women had a lot of fun with make up! So, why not take inspiration from their excesses and live it up a little – albeit in 21st century style?

The Great Gatsby Complexion

Forget the fake tan: the roaring 20s were all about a peaches-and-cream complexion, fuelled by the invention of the compact, which allowed for on-the-go touchups. To ensure you’re the fairest of them all, choose a foundation and concealer (like Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation and Yves Saint Laurent Touche Éclat) that match your skin, then set with a translucent powder (Burberry Beauty Luminous Pressed Powder) to remove any sheen. Skip the bronzer. Instead, opt for a pale pink blush (L’Orèal Paris Visible Lift Color Lift Blush in Rose Gold) to liven up your creamy matte complexion.

Evening time? Go brighter with a red creme blush applied to the apples of your cheeks and blended upwards, towards the temples. But remember: the Great Gatsby women are all about a matte look, so keep shimmer away from the center of the face. Keep it for the cheekbones and just under the brow bone.

great-gatsby-makeup-2

The Great Gatsby Eyes

Think super-smoky! King Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered in the early ’20s and the world went crazy for everything Egyptian, including Cleopatra’s famed kohl eyes. And even before mascara came into the market, the Great Gatsby women were satisfying their desire for dramatic lashes using petroleum jelly mixed with soot – after using the era’s indispensable lash curler, of course.

Thankfully, we have it easier. To recreate the ’20s sooty effect, apply a charcoal grey eyeshadow (Benefit Creaseless Cream Shadow) from the lash line to the brow line, sweeping it horizontally from one corner of your eye to the other. Then extend a black liner (Urban Decay 24/7 Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner in Sabbath) slightly up and outward from the outer corner of your eye. Finish by curling your lashes and applying heavy mascara (Lancôme Hypnose Black Mascara). And for the final glam-Gatsby twist, press a tiny amount of fine glitter (Make Up For Ever) on top of the eyeshadow with your finger. Voila!

Prefer a softer eye look? Swap charcoal grey eyeshadow for a softer metallic grey or pastel. Simply apply the shade to the entire lid and underneath the lower lash line.

As for the eyebrows… think very high, thin, arched and drawn in with pencil. ”The eyebrows were the most important part of the face because they represented the fashion of the time,” says Maurizio Silvi, The Great Gatsby’s makeup designer. “We plucked all the eyebrows into a 1920s shape.” Want to steal the look? Darken and turn eyebrows slightly downward with a pencil that is darker than your natural color (NARS Eyebrow Pencil).

great-gatsby-makeup-3The Great Gatsby Lips

Finish off your Great Gatsby makeup with the iconic 1920s cupid bow lip. This style, popular among the era’s leading beauties, gave the lip an exaggerated feminine look just in time to lure troops coming home from the war.

To get that cupid bow, start by tracing your lip with a liner, creating dramatic arcs to emphasize the bend in your upper lip. Fill in the area you’ve outlined with a rich, flat lipstick shade, such as deep reds, wines and plums – all the better to emphasize a fair complexion.

Unless, of course, you are Daisy Buchanan. Then you go with a light pinky nude shade from Chanel (Chanel Rouge Allure in Seduisante) on your lips. Because, as Silvi puts it, ”We decided that red lipstick didn’t fit her personality”. Add just a dot of gloss (Benefit Ultra Plush Lip Gloss in Lollibop) and you are done!

Finishing Touches

This is the fun part! Pick a spot on your face for a beauty mark and with the tip of a brown or black eyeliner, push it into the skin. Then spritz on some Chanel No. 5, tuck that Vintage Style Scalloped Bag from Monsoon Accessorize under your arm and be ready to paaaaaarty!!!!

The Great Gatsby Hair

The bob and finger wave were high fashion in the 1920s, and have become a current favorite of everybody from Charlize Theron to Marion Cotillard and Maggie Gyllenhaal. Kerry Warn, The Great Gatsby’s hairstylist, cut Mulligan’s hair into a modern version of the 1920s style: “…based on the semi-shingle, a layered bob with a masculine shape in the back”.

But you can achieve the Great Gatsby hairstyle even without resorting to scissors. Start by combing a texturising cream (Aerin Beach Cream for Hair and Body) through damp strands. Then part your wet hair, place your middle finger next to the part and drag the teeth of your comb along the length of your finger. Use your index finger to hold the wave firmly in place, then pull the comb back through your hair in the opposite direction to create the finger wave’s signature ridge. Continue doing this until you have the desired number of waves.

Can’t quite get that finger wave right? Add flair to your hair with a decorative headpiece like the ones Carey Mulligan wears throughout the Great Gatsby. Bejeweled hairpins, feathered headbands, pretty scarves (Liberty London Orange Heron Print Silk Chiffon Scarf) and sequined headpieces (Bridal mini hat by Fine and Fleurie) were a favorite accessory of Flapper-era women. And they continue to be trendy even today. Easy!

great-gatsby-makeup-4

Accessory Time!

Accessories are a must to creating The Great Gatsby effect! Women in the 1920s were celebrating the end of the war and a new period of economic growth. Needless to say, they wore extravagant jewelry to signify their newfound wealth. Sleek, smooth diamond pieces, geometric patterns, pearls, feathers and colorful accent stones are all hallmarks of 1920s jewelry.

There are lots of ways to get the 1920s accessory style. One of the era’s signature looks is stacked smooth diamond bracelets. You can add instant Art Deco charm to your fashion by wearing an oversized cocktail ring with a sapphire or emerald square-cut stone (Tiffany Ziegfeld collection ring). Or you can go the ultra-feminine route and layer long pearl necklaces (Fallon Jewelry classique long faux pearl necklace).

The ultimate in glittering decadence, of course, is the $200,000 Tiffany hair band worn in The Great Gatsby. In fact, most of the pieces worn by Daisy Buchanan are duplicates of original ’20s pieces from the Tiffany archives. However, for those hoping to get their glittering Gatsby fix, there’s the Tiffany Ziegfeld collection, which is a more affordable (relatively speaking) take on the early 1920s. There are a host of daisy-motif pieces, including heart-shaped sterling silver lockets ($650) and monogrammed cufflinks for men ($350).

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And then there is the Champagne. Moët & Chandon is one of the movie’s official partners and the Champagne major has delved into its archives to ensure that all the bubbly being poured on the silver screen is from bottles bearing historically accurate 192os labels. So, keep one of these lovely fizzy bottles on hand and get ready to channel your inner Daisy Buchanan!

Would YOU ever wear 1920′s-inspired makeup? Tell me below.

Is Your Makeup Ageing You?

If there is one thing I have learnt during my days in beauty, it’s to re-evaluate makeup with every birthday. And no! I am not talking about dumb rules such as that women should not wear bright colors after a certain age. It’s more to do with the way our skin and facial structure changes with passing years. Here is a cheat sheet to keep you looking your best, forever.

makeup and age

Don’t stop wearing bright colors – just adjust the texture

  • In our mid-20s, skin is blessed with optimal water, fat and oil to keep us looking youthfully radiant. However, by the late 20s, all these start declining and the complexion gets drier. This makes lines, wrinkles and other imperfections more prominent. So, start by keeping your skin well hydrated and choose moisturising foundation and lipsticks over matte ones to create a glow-y effect.
  • You need foundation to tackle the redness, brown spots and uneven skin tone that are all part of growing older. However, opt for a dewy formulation and use a light hand: when makeup artists have to age stars for the screen, they literally spackle on ultra-heavy foundation! And skimp on powder – it settles into fine lines and can make the complexion appear dry and pasty.
  • With time, our faces get longer and more sallow, so apply blush onto the apples of the cheeks, rather than underneath the cheek bone. Choose a healthy looking, natural shade – a blush that’s too dark or too bright will wash you out.
  • Approach shimmer with caution. Formulas with shiny particles act like mammoth spotlights, throwing into focus every line, wrinkle and wayward pore.
  • As we age, our lips get drier and thinner. Keep them moist with creamy lipsticks and plumping glosses. Topping lipstick with gloss will also make your lips appear fuller because of the latter’s light reflecting properties.
  • As we age, our lashes get thinner. To counter, befriend the eyelash curler and mascara. Curling your lashes raises them up and away from the eyelids, making eyes look bigger and more lifted.