What stress (or anger!) does to your face… and how to fix it!

Lately, despite the twice daily cleansing and moisturising, an hour at the gym, weekly scrubs and face packs, adequate beauty sleep and copious amounts of water, I have been noticing that my skin has never ever looked this terrible. It’s reached a point where strangers at the malls are asking me if I am sick and need help… not kidding!

stress and skin

Time to visit the dermatologist – who takes one look at my blotchy complexion, flaking chin, dark circles and the monstrous zit on my forehead and decides what I need is a “life questionnaire” rather than a session of Blue Light. And through gradual prodding and poking, we arrive at the root cause – stress (and a lot of being pissed off, to boot), which is literally killing my skin cells.

I have always known that stress leads to high blood pressure, depression, migraines, heart disease, obesity… yada yada yada! But honestly, it never bothered me because all that’s in the future. Skin problems, however, are in the here and now! Hence, this required some serious research. And what I found is that given our increasingly crazy lifestyles, there is actually a new field of medicine called psychodermatology, which focuses on the mind-beauty connection. Experts of psychodermatology treat skin problems that are caused or worsened by stress and here I am summarising what they say happens to our complexions when we are emotionally troubled.

But remember, these “quick fixes” are just that – quick fixes. To actually reverse the beauty (and overall health!) effects of stress, you need to go much deeper than lotions and potions!

1. Dullness

Stress triggers a hormone called cortisol (a stress hormone), which slows down skin cells, making them take longer to reach the surface and flake off. Hence, dead skin cells build up, making your face look dull and lifeless.

Quick fix: Drink more water and exfoliate regularly.

2. Sagging

Furthermore, prolonged cortisol production leads to loss of collagen and elastin, resulting in slackness, sagging and loss of elasticity. Not a good beauty look at all!

Quick fix: Consume foods that increase collagen production and benefit the skin. For example, soy products help block enzymes that break down and age the skin. Also, try topical beauty products containing Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) or hyaluronic acid (sometimes listed as sodium hyaluronate). Skip the retinoids though – they will further irritate stressed skin.

stress and skin 33. Dryness

Stressed skin has a very low lipid (protective) barrier, so fluids evaporate more easily. In addition, cortisol also reduces the skin’s ability to retain water, leading to excessive dryness.

Quick fix: Try a weekly moisture mask and apply a hydrating serum along with moisturiser. Also, avoid using toners and cleansers that contain harsh ingredients such as Ammonium Laurenth Sulphate, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and Sodium Laureth Sulphate, which can dehydrate and irritate the skin.

4. Skin infections

The epidermal skin cells are packed tightly together, forming a strong barrier that blocks the entry of bacteria and other toxins. When you are under stress, this protective layer becomes less effective, allowing harmful bacteria to reach the deeper layers of skin.

Quick fix: Keep skin scrupulously clean with a mild soap. Use warm, not hot water, and pat skin dry instead of rubbing; put moisturiser on immediately.

5. Itchy, ugly rashes

Stress decreases skin’s self-repairing abilities, while also releasing histamines (which create allergic reactions) into the bloodstream. The result? Flareups of immunity-related conditions such as hives, rashes, cold sores, psoriasis and eczema.

Quick fix: Look for beauty products that contain soothing ingredients like avocado oil, almond oil, aloe vera, Shea butter, sunflower oil and chamomile. Also, cut down on the number of skincare products you use –  fewer products means lesser ingredients and hence a lower risk of an allergic reaction.

6. Blemishes

Stress increases oil production, which blocks the pores and results in breakouts.

Quick fix: Keep skin clear of surface dirt, oil and dead cells. Use oil-free beauty products and wash your face gently with a soft cloth. Don’t scrub, as this can further irritate acne and make it worse.

stress and skin 27. Premature ageing

During times of crisis, our body redirects the flow of blood to areas that are vital for reacting to stress – such as lungs and heart. This leaves skin without essential blood and oxygen. The result? Increased production of free radicals and tissue-damaging oxidants, which speed up wrinkles, lines and other signs of premature ageing.

Quick fix: Try some facial exercises and massage. These help release tension along with increasing oxygen-rich blood flow to muscles, tissue and skin, making the complexion look vibrant and healthier.

8. Sallowness

Stress hurts the digestive system. This means essential nutrients are not digested properly, allowing build up of impurities. As a result, stressed skin looks dull, lifeless and sallow.

Quick fix: Step up intake of leafy greens, fruit and high protein grains and lentils as well as healthy fats like those found in avocados and olive oil; cut down on caffeine. Skipping meals is a complete no-no!

9. Inflammation

Prolonged stress creates chronic internal inflammation, which leads to premature ageing, uneven skin tone and texture, lack of radiance and hyperpigmentation.

Quick fix: Sleep is anti-inflammatory – a time of healing, when cortisol levels are at their lowest. Getting enough will keep your body’s best coping skills at hand.

10. Skin cancers

In a study at Yale University, it was found that people with melanoma – the deadliest form of skin cancer – were more likely to have gone through stressful life events during the years leading up to their diagnosis than people who did not have skin cancer.

Quick fix: Remember to not skip the sunscreen – even if you are indoors. Rule of thumb is that if the natural light is bright enough to read, it’s bright enough to damage your skin.


What is your body acne telling you?

There has been a lot of discussion on this blog about how face mapping can reveal underlying health problems through the location of acne on various “zones” that correspond to our internal organs. But this ancient science doesn’t end there: just as face mapping can tell what your facial pimples mean, mapping where you get pimples on the rest of your body can also help pinpoint (and thereby treat) internal imbalances that might be messing up your system.

So, on popular demand, I have gone back to the drawing board – consisting of ancient Chinese and Ayurvedic texts, as interpreted by 21st century’s cutting edge doctors – and distilled that knowledge into this easy-to-interpret “body map” of acne zones. Put simply, think of your body as a map and blemishes as X’s on that landscape. Spots in different zones correspond to different problems. Interesting, right? Try it out: here is how to decode breakouts in the basic body areas.

body-acne-meaningZone 1: Hormones

Like the jaw, acne on the neck might indicate that your adrenal glands (hormones) are in overdrive. Other options: stress or excessive sugar intake. That’s if you are not wearing shirts with tight collars or have greasy hair that constantly touches the skin in this area.

Zone 2 & 3: Stress

Shoulder acne could mean that you are overstressed, sensitive and vulnerable. Another alternative? Check whether your handbag strap is causing friction against the skin.

Zone 4: Digestive System

Are you wearing clothes that are not breathable – like polyester or nylon? Have you ruled out fungal infections (especially if you have little whiteheads on the chest that don’t respond to acne treatments) and allergies? If all these are clear, acne on the chest can point towards digestive troubles, like a poor diet, bad eating habits, having excessively spicy food or drinking too many cold beverages on a regular basis.

Zone 5 & 6: Vitamin Levels

Skin is coarser on the arms so you can get keratosis pilaris in this area. This appears as small spots that give skin a rough, goose-bumpy appearance. Keratosis pilaris is caused by poor circulation and overproduction of dead cells at the hair follicle. Try to treat it with regular exfoliation and moisturizers containing salicylic acid. If the problem persists despite this, it could be a sign of how efficiently your body is receiving and utilising vitamins from your diet.

Zone 7: Blood Sugar Levels

There are very few oil glands in this area, making stomach acne a rarer complaint. When zits do crop up here, it’s usually because of one of these reasons: tight fitting clothes or high blood sugar.

Zone 8: Hygiene or STDs

Utterly painful and pretty difficult to clear up because of this area’s high moistness factor, crotch or pelvic acne could crop up because of ingrown hairs from waxing or shaving. Then again, poor personal hygiene might play a role. More worryingly though, it could be warts or the symptom of an STD (especially if the spots itch, ooze or don’t show any signs of improvement after 3-4 days).

Zone 9 & 10: Skin Sensitivities or Allergies

Acne on the thighs and upper legs often comes up as a reaction to body lotions, shower gels, laundry detergent, fabric softener or dryer sheets. On the lower legs, there is the added factor of ingrown hair post-shaving or waxing. It’s best treated with a body wash that has salicylic acid (BHA) or glycolic acid (AHA) and a light, non-comedogenic moisturizer.

Zone 11 & 12: Nervous and Digestive Systems

This is the most common body area for acne and frequent reasons include allergies, excessive sweating, not showering after exercise, friction from athletic gear, clothes that are too tight and not breathable, backpack straps, irritation because of hair or body care products, reaction to laundry detergent, fabric softener or dryer sheets. If you have ruled out all these, evaluate whether your diet is loaded with fried and high calorie foods or you aren’t getting enough sleep… both could be contributing elements.

Zone 13 & 14: Digestive System

There are usually three reasons for acne to show up on the buttocks: underwear that’s dirty, not breathable or too tight; excessively dry skin; and poor diet or digestion, with too many cold drinks and too much spicy food. So if the zits don’t subside despite moisturizing your skin, wearing loose cotton clothes and keeping everything clean, start evaluating your dietary habits.

So the next time you break out on the back or shoulders, look to your body map: your skin is probably trying to communicate on behalf of the internal organs. However, do remember that, as with all medical issues, it is always best to see your doctor or dermotologist for a proper prognosis. I am not a doctor or a medical practitioner and this is just a general guide to head you off in the right investigative direction – just becuase you break out on the stomach doesn’t always mean you have high blood sugar!

Heat Got You Down? Make a Keep-Your-Cool Face Mist

Remember when you were a kid and all you wanted to do on hot summer days was run through every sprinkler in the neighborhood? The face mist is a grown-up version of those cooling, refreshing sprinklers – spritzing your overheated skin without getting chased off a stranger’s lawn. On top of that, a face mist also helps tone your skin, wards off excess oil, hydrates a dry complexion, soothes irritation, protects against environmental toxins and restores skin’s pH balance. And it helps to refresh and enliven your mood with fragrant aromatherapy oils.

Plus, a face mist is ridiculously simple to whip up and there are many different variations for various skin types. So, if you have issues with greasy or dehydrated skin, or if you just get extra-toasty in the summer heat, this may be your ticket to relief!

face-mistAloe Face Mist for Dry & Sensitive Skin

How-to: Fill a small spray bottle halfway with natural aloe vera juice. Then add enough orange blossom water to nearly fill the bottle to the top. Add 3 drops of lavender essential oil. Shake well; spray this mist on your face and neck whenever skin starts to feel dry.

Why it works: Orange blossom water calms and tones with its gentle astringency, while lavender essential oil helps reduce inflammation and gives skin a nourishing boost. Aloe vera moisturizes and encourages skin repair and healing, making it perfect for dry, sensitive, and damaged skin. Taken together, these ingredients keep skin looking dewy and moist instead of dull and dry.

Citrus Face Mist for Acne-Prone Skin

How-to: In a big pot, boil 2 cups of distilled water, 1 grapefruit (cut into chunks with the skin still on) and 2 tablespoons of rosemary (fresh or dry). Once the mixture comes to a boil, turn the heat down to medium and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Then remove the pot from the heat and let everything steep for another few minutes. Finally, strain the liquid to remove the grapefruit and rosemary, let it cool, pour it into a spray bottle and refrigerate.

Why it works: Grapefruit’s natural cleansing action helps battle acne, while refreshing the face and giving the complexion a nice pick-me-up. The rosemary, in the meantime, helps fade acne scars and blemishes. Voila!

Rose Hip & Calendula Face Mist for Oily Skin

How to: Mix 4 drops of organic Calendula oil, 4 drops of Argan oil, 6 drops of Rose Hip oil and enough orange blossom water to fill 3/4 of your spray bottle. Mix well and store in the refrigerator; shake before use to ensure that ingredients are properly blended.

Why it works: Sounds counter-productive but Argan oil is terrific at busting excess oil that may get caught in your pores. Similarly, Calendula oil is great for sensitive or inflamed skin, making it a good choice to bust breakouts. And Rose Hip oil helps to heal both inflammation and scarring. Finally, the orange blossom water acts as a potent toner, helping to combat oil levels.

face-mist-2Green Tea Face Mist for Sun-Scorched Skin

How to: Place 1 tablespoon each of dried sencha (Japanese green tea), dried ginseng root, whole dried chamomile flowers (or one tea bag of chamomile tea) and 1 teaspoon lime peel in a glass jar. Pour 1 cup of hot water over the ingredients and steep for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid and add 1 tablespoon of witch hazel (optional), 10 drops of tangerine essential oil, 5 drops of basil essential oil and 5 drops of peppermint essential oil. Store in a dark glass bottle and refrigerate.

Why it works: The antioxidant powers of green tea are great for reversing the effects of environmental toxins and guarding against sun damage. At the same time, the reviving qualities of ginseng, refreshing lime, chamomile flowers and aloe vera leave skin softened, hydrated and regenerated.

Rose Hip & Chamomile Face Mist for Dull Skin

How to: Blend together 3.5 oz of strongly brewed rose hips tea, 3.5 oz of strongly brewed chamomile tea and 2 oz of aloe vera juice; pour everything into a spray bottle. Mist generously and leave to absorb. Can also be misted on top of makeup for a dewy look.

Why it works: Rose hips contain nature’s highest concentration of vitamin C, which strengthens collagen and perks up the complexion. Chamomile soothes and calms, while aloe vera is lightly hydrating and eliminates redness. Result? This energizing face mist is perfect for use as a skin brighter or a quick pick-me-up.

Beauty Secrets of the Ancient Geishas

Every time I travel to Japan, my skin develops an inferiority complex. I mean, have you ever seen those Japanese women with their smooth, glowing, absolutely flawless skin? There is not a single blemish or an enlarged pore to be seen anywhere. And this time it was even worse, considering that I was in Kanazawa to meet with one of the greatest cultural icons of all times: an honest-to-goodness geisha. One of those magical superwomen who can seduce with a downward glance, fascinate with her silent sensuality and entrance with a flick of the wrist. And then there is that unbelievably smooth, porcelain-like skin, glossy hair and ruby red lips that are unrivalled across the world.

So, this time I decided to tackle the eternal question: what are the secret skincare and haircare recipes that make geishas so beautiful, so ageless and so dazzling? There really just a few of them and they can be incorporated in daily life to get those results.

geisha-beauty-secretsSea Salt

Since Japan sits on the waters, it makes sense that sea salt would be a part of the geisha’s skincare routine. Salt is a wonderful body scrub, while also being terrific for cellulite. However, unlike us mere mortals who mix it with oil, the Japanese geishas prefer whipped cream. Follow suit by blending 2 tablespoons of sea salt with a little whipped cream to create a body scrub. Massage in circular motions over warm skin, preferably halfway through a shower. Finally, rinse and finish off with body lotion. Massaging with sea salt breaks down fat and makes skin firm and smooth. Easy, ain’t it?

Rice Bran

The chemical composition of rice bran is similar to that of human skin. Add to this its potent water retaining and exfoliating abilities and you can see why this husky flour has been a skincare staple of the geishas since 1100 AD. An added bonus: while other scrubs can tear and damage the skin cells, rice bran leaves them rejuvenated, cleansed and healthy. For the best results, mix 1 tablespoon of rice bran flour with enough milk or yoghurt to form a smooth paste. Apply this to warm, freshly cleansed skin and leave on till dry (approximately 10 minutes). After that, remove the mask using warm water and circular motions of your fingertips. Pat dry and apply your usual skincare.

Rice

The beauty benefits of rice have been treasured for hundreds of years by women not only in Japan but also in Indonesia and other Asian countries. That’s because rice is rich in gamma-oryzanol – a powerful antioxidant that boosts collagen production. The most popular rice mask involves powdering 2 tablespoons of rice in a coffee grinder. Mix this rice flour with 1 tablespoon of whipped cream. Apply this paste to your face and neck; rinse after 20 minutes.

Persimmon

Known as the fruit of the Gods in ancient Greece, persimmon contains calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, iodine and super-high levels of vitamins. Japan’s geishas understood the multifaceted benefits of this fruit and used it in many different ways – from face masks to skin tonics and detox diets. A favorite recipe: mix 1 tablespoon of mashed persimmon with 1 teaspoon each of honey and egg yolk. Apply to clean skin and leave for 15-20 minutes before washing off with warm water. This face mask will hydrate, nourish and protect against environmental damage.

geisha-beauty-secrets-2

Green Tea

Green tea is loaded with polyphenols, which fight free radicals, reduce skin inflammation, provide protection against skin cancer and bust any nasty toxins or bacteria that may be lingering in your pores. Geishas are famous for their elaborate tea ceremonies, often involving green tea, but it is a less widely known fact that they use that very same tea to keep their skin glowing and gorgeous. How? Boil, strain and cool 1 cup of green tea. To this, add 1/2 cup ground oats, 1 tablespoon avocado oil or mashed avocado and 10 drops lemon juice. Mix the ingredients into a paste that you apply on clean face. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then remove with washcloth and lukewarm water. Do this twice a week for skin that absolutely radiates its flawless perfection.

Apple Cider Vinegar

The enzyme-rich apple cider vinegar literally melts away dead skin cells. Which is why geishas add it to their shampoo to prevent dandruff and stimulate hair growth. They also add it to the bath to keep their skin young and healthy. Follow in their footsteps by mixing organic apple cider vinegar in the ratio of 1:1, soaking a cotton pad in the mixture and patting it onto your skin. Leave on skin for 5-7 minutes, then wash off with plain water. The result? Clean and fresh new skin.

Camellia Oil

Japanese women have known for centuries about the wonderful haircare benefits of camellia oil. It is exceptionally high in oleic acids, proteins and glycerides that are perfect for maintaining hair health, as well as adding volume and gloss. And using it is super-simple: lightly heat 1 teaspoon of camellia oil and rub it along the length and tips of wet hair. Then cover your strands with a towel for 20 minutes. Finally, shampoo your hair and rinse well; condition as usual.

Will you be trying any of these secret beauty recipes of the geishas? Tell me in the comments section below!

Banish Body Breakouts in 5 Easy Steps

body-acnePost-winter body acne is a common concern – it happens when sebaceous (oil producing) glands start working overtime with the change in temperature, producing excess oil and clogging skin pores. This attracts bacteria, which leads to acne. Body acne is also triggered by wearing tight clothes and sweating, which do not allow the skin to breathe properly. Follow this easy 5-step plan to keep your body smooth and blemish-free for summer’s short dresses and back-baring necklines:

1. Switch to loose, cotton clothing and shower frequently, especially after the gym or a sweaty day in the sun.

2. Body skin is thicker than the face, making breakouts here more stubborn and resistant to treatment. Combat with an acne-fighting body wash like Clinique’s Acne Solutions Cleansing Bar or Lush’s Dirty Springwash.

3. Exfoliate thoroughly to help unclog pores further. Try Clinique’s Sparkle Skin Body Exfoliator or Neutrogena’s Body Clear.

4. Spot treat the zits with alpha-hydroxy acid or salicylic acid gel (to unclog pores) in the morning and a dose of at least two per cent benzoyl peroxide (to dry out zits and kill bacteria) at night – Neutrogena Body Clear Body Spray works well.

5. Keep the affected area free of greasy creams and scented lotions, and if you’re going to expose it to the sun, make sure your SPF is oil-free. Try Kiehl’s Mexoryl SP50.