Eye Liner Archives - The Beauty Gypsy

How to wear colored eyeliner without looking like a 12-year-old

April 4, 2013 By anubha 14 Comments

If I had to pick just one beauty trend to wear this season, it would be the candy-colored eyeliners that are popping up everywhere. They look so pretty and flattering, while making makeup super-simple – just a flick of the pencil and you are ready to go! However, this is also one trend that seems to scare women the most because it’s easy for colored eyeliner to go the route of a 12-year-old playing with her mother’s makeup. So, how do you walk the thin line between cool and kiddish? Read on.

1. Don’t just pick your favorite color

Like clothes and lipstick, the color you absolutely adore might not be the best option for your peepers to sport. To make colored eyeliner work, you NEED to pick one that compliments (not matches) your eye color. Remember that opposites attract: brown eyes look best with richer, more saturated colours like purple, lavender, pink, turquoise, blue, gold and copper; blue eyes are incredible when paired with bronze, orange or rust; green eyes look wonderful with purple, gold or a dark turquoise; and hazel eyes really stand out in green or purple.

2. Pick your formula

The texture matters… a lot. Pencil liners give you the most control, making them excellent for novices or those who don’t have the steadiest of hands. If you want to rim the inner lashlines, use a firm, traditional pencil. For a smudgy look, choose a kohl, which is more malleable. Liquids give you the thickest, most dramatic line – those with a brush deposit the most pigment but require a steady hand; pen versions dry faster but are less saturated. Gels produce an even line and glide on more smoothly than liquids.

3. Get close to the lash line

Colored eyeliner really works best when it hugs your lash line, without any skin peeping through in between. For the cleanest effect, work your way from the top innermost area to the outer corner. Then do the bottom line, starting from the outside and work your way inward. Move the liner rather than you head.

4. Go graphic

Another way to distinguish yourself from the fun-loving-yet-clueless 12-year-old? Opt for graphic lines. The simplest way to do this is with a thin line of pencil along your upper lashes (you can tick it up at the edges, but don’t wing it out). For a strong, nighttime look, trace your upper and lower lids with the liner, extending it outwards in a triangular shape. If you are feeling more daring, trace a colored line in the crease of your eyes.

5. Make colored eyeliner the focus

Colored eyeliner is the beauty equivalent of a little red dress – meant to be seen, not overshadowed. And certainly not treated as “part” of an outfit. Frankly, the main reason colored eye makeup looks tacky so often is that it’s paired with super-bright lips, OTT eye shadow and teased hair. Want to keep it chic and cheerful? Team it with just loose waves or a high ponytail and natural makeup (soft pinks, peaches and roses work best). If you use an eye shadow, make sure it’s neutral. In fact, this season the makeup pros recommend even ditching mascara for a clean, fresh take on the trend.

6. Keep it dark

On a day when I want to go bright yet not so dramatic, this is the best bet: First, line your eyes with a soft black pencil. Then trace the colored eyeliner (jewel tones work best here) right on top of the black, lightly smudging them together. What you get is a deeper, richer shade that’s almost – but not totally – black. It gives just the right pop of color without screaming out loud.

Have you ever rocked colorful eyeliner? What is your best tip for dramatic eyes?

Estée Lauder Pure Color Quick-Thick Eyeliner

February 5, 2013 By anubha 2 Comments

I know this post is a bit behind time – since the Estée Lauder Pure Color Quick-Thick Eyeliner in Punker Black was actually launched in November – but blame the delay on my pathological abhorrence of felt-tipped liners. Even though, practically speaking, these should be the go-to item for creating my favourite cat’s eye effect, most of them seem just too watery and are not pigmented enough to make a strong graphic statement, which is what the cat’s eye is all about. That’s why I have been ignoring the Estée Lauder Quick-Thick till now.

Then on Saturday night, I ran out of every single black liner and my only options were the Quick-Thick or a Sharpie, à la Taylor Swift. Which is when I discovered that the Quick-Thick is actually as much like a Sharpie as it’s possible for a non-Sharpie to be: quick, thick and instantly impacty. To begin with, it has a firm tip that doesn’t glide along your eyelid like a soft paint brush… instead, it literally draws like a firm black marker, which makes it perfect for creating bold, thick lines.

But this doesn’t mean that the Estée Lauder Quick-Thick can’t be used for softer looks. It definitely can: you simply use the fine point of the tip. It can also be used for dotting between lashes to enhance the lash line. But it’s main strength is the ability to quickly and easily achieve that thicker, bolder graphic effect. The felt tip is not too “wet”, which is what I found with other felt liners. Consequently, the finish is opaque, glossy and retains its inky black shade without smudging or fading.

The size also matters. A lot. The shorter, stubbier body allows for more control and grip. . . which ultimately leads to steady lines and precise application, both of which are perfect for the season’s dramatically graphic eyes. If I were to improve on the formula, I would probably just want it to be waterproof. And serve it up in a few more colours. Estée Lauder, are you listening?

Filed Under: Beauty, Brands, Eyes, Makeup Tagged With: black eye liner, cat's eye, Estee Lauder, Estee Lauder Eyeliner, Estee Lauder Pure Color, Estee Lauder Pure Color Quick-Thick Eyeliner, Estee Lauder Pure Colour Quick-Thick Eyeliner, Estee Lauder Quick Thick, Eye Liner, Eyeliner, felt eyeliner, winged eye

Kohl vs. Eye Pencil: The Pros, Cons and Recipes

December 12, 2012 By anubha 10 Comments

It’s a question I have often been asked – what’s the difference between eye pencils and kohl? Are they the same thing? Is one better than the other?

Beauty, Eye Liner, Eye Pencil, Kaajal, Kajal, Kohl

No! They are not the same thing. Modern day eye pencils are typically made from an assortment of waxes, powders and pigments (which may be chemical or plant based) and their only purpose is to line the eyes. Kohl (or kaajal), on the other hand, is made from soot (lamp black) that is mixed with other natural ingredients and its main purpose is to soothe and cleanse the eyes, protect against infections and safeguard against the harsh glare of the sun.

What about the eye pencils that bill themselves as “kohl sticks” or “kaajal liners”?

They are either usually mimicking the ancient formulation’s highly smudge-able texture and jet black effect or calling upon irritant-free ingredients that allow them to be used on the inner rim. You would be hard pressed to find an authentic kohl liner on the market that’s actually made from soot or has beneficial properties that go beyond the cosmetic. For example, Guerlain’s Terracotta Kôhl – a seasonal limited edition based on mineral powders – “is a creamy, glide-on kohl stick that can be applied to the inner rim of the eyelid. The formula is highly concentrated in pigments so the eyes are emphasized with a new intensity – and kept comfortable and irritant free.”

So, does that mean that kaajal is a better bet?

Not always, I would say. While it’s definitely a healthier option, kaajal can be extremely messy and difficult to apply. Looking for a well defined cat’s eye or precision lines? An eye pencil, with its easy-to-apply tip and high manoeuvrability would definitely work much better. However, if you are looking for a smudged, sootier effect, an intense black colour or protection against infections (or even against the ‘evil eye’), kaajal is a better option.

Beauty, Eye Liner, Eye Pencil, Kaajal, Kajal, Kohl

The Kohl Effect

Me? I love both – using the myriadly-hued eye pencils when I am short of time and need to dress up my eyes in a hurry or am going for a complicated look; switching to the enchanting pots of kohl when I am in the mood to look and feel more exotic, am going to be out in the sun for long hours or have had a string of long nights and need something to cool and refresh my eyes. And yes, when I want to keep evil people at bay!

Make-at-home recipes

My favourite recipe is a traditional Kashmiri formulation from Almond Eyes, Lotus Feet. It sounds complicated, but is actually not so tough once you get going:

A few days before you are going to make the kaajal, take a clean glass vessel and prepare in it a solution of 100 ml (3 1/2 cups) of rose water and 5 grams (1 teaspoon) of rasanjan. Rasanjan is an extract from the stem and root of the daru-hald plant, commonly called barberry. Keep stirring this solution for a few days until it is thoroughly mixed, the strain it. At that point it can be used all by itself to clear up infection, a few drops a day in the eyes.

But if you wish to make kaajal, then mix this solution with 2 teaspoons of freshly ground turmeric powder, 2 ground almonds, and 2 nimbu or lime leaves which have been dried and powdered. Prepare a thick flat roll of cotton wool, like a wick, and soak it in the mixture. Let the wick dry and then twist it tightly. Place it in a little flameproof cup, preferably silver, filled with mustard oil or clarified butter. Invert a second little silver or earthenware cup over the wick. Balance it on something so that it rests about an inch from the flame which will now burn as you light the wick in the first cup. You will have to remove the upper cup two or three times and scrape the accumulated soot into a container – we always used pretty little silver boxes. As home-made kaajal is made in large batches, you will have to keep adding oil to the bottom of the cup until you have as much as you want.

When it is ready and all safely tucked away in the prettiest box you can find, add as much clarified butter as is necessary to bring the kaajal to the consistency of very thick dough. Try to use a silver box for storing, as silver is very cooling to the eyes and the kaajal will take on that cooling quality.

Looking for something simpler?

This is the more popularly used version… as a kid, I remember going this route during Diwali, when we used to make and stock up on a year’s supply of kaajal once the rituals were done!

Make a thick wick from cotton wool and soak it in pure ghee (clarified butter). Then fill a silver or earthenware diya (cup or lamp) with ghee, place the wick in the centre and light it. A few minutes later, place a small silver plate, diya or cup around half an inch over the flame (a pair of tongs is indispensable here), and let the soot emanating from the flame collect on this surface. Once you have enough soot, carefully scrape it off the surface and transfer it into a small silver container. Add pharma-grade castor oil and mix well to the desired consistency.

Filed Under: Ayurveda, Beauty, Eyes, Makeup, Organic, Royalty Tagged With: Almond Eyes, Beauty, Butter, Eye Kohl, Eye Liner, Eye Pencil, Eyes, Kaajal, Kajal, Kohl, Kohl Liner

Les Essentiels de Chanel Fall 2012 Makeup Collection

July 5, 2012 By anubha 1 Comment

One of the high points in a Beauty Editor’s life is the thrill of seeing sleek, shiny and straight-off-the-runway bags of new season makeup goodies sitting on your desk when you walk into office. And personally for me, there is little that gladdens the heart more than the chic interlocked Cs of Chanel, stocked to overflowing with pretty colours and even prettier textures. However, while Peter Philips, the brand’s Global Creative Director for Makeup, has been making huge waves with his covetable nail polishes during the last few seasons, what I have really missed is Dominique Moncourtois‘ so-gorgeous-that-you-can’t-bear-to-use-them palettes – remember the Les 4 Camelias de Chanel or the Les Tentations Tweed Effect Blush? – that are still sitting in my showcase (note, showcase not dressing table – yes, they are that pretty).

Illuminating Powder

Chanel, makeup, beauty, Fall, 2012, Les Essentials de Chanel, cosmetics, blush, nail polish, vertigo, lipstick, lip gloss, rouge allure, rouge coco, highlighter, illuminating powder, Lumiere d'Artifices, beige, eye shadow, palette, eye liner

Lumiere D’Artifices Beiges Illuminating Powder with Shimmer

So, it’s really exciting to see Philips go back to that glorious tradition, first with the archive-worthy Poudre Compacte in Route des Indes and now with the Lumiere D’Artifices Beiges Illuminating Powder with Shimmer, which is part of the just released Les Essentiels de Chanel Fall 2012 makeup collection. Though I wouldn’t exactly call it “new”, since Dominique did a very similar sequin-and-thread pattern with gold, silver and white eye shadows back in 2007 (Chanel Lumière d’Artifices Eyeshadow), the Lumiere D’Artifices is definitely going places with its interplay of light and dark beige shades, which blend to create a subtle iridescence that seems to extend the glow of sunny, summery days.

Chanel Lumière d’Artifices Eyeshadow (2007)

Unfortunately, the shimmer in this illuminating powder is only an overspray, which wears off with just one swipe. The overall effect is pretty but I see it working more for cooler skin tones and still think that the Lumière d’Artifices was more stunning and definitely more collectable where pure gorgeousness is concerned.

Swatches of the Lumiere D’Artifices Beiges Illuminating Powder with Shimmer

Nail Polishes

Now, what Philips does really, really well is nail polish and the Fall 2012 collection is sure to have another super-hit in the form of Vertigo ($27) – an almost black lacquer with an undertone of shimmery red particles that reveal themselves according to the light. It’s the shade that Jac is wearing in the campaign image and at first glance may seem quite similar to Paradoxal or Black Satin – two of Chanel’s earlier superstars. However, Paradoxal is more purple-ish while Black Satin is, well, just black (check this post by Sabrina from The Beauty Look Book for comparisons with similar colours). Of the other two hues, Frenzy is a milky greige (what’s with all the brands trying to reinvent greige again this season?), with a hint of lavender; while Suspicious is a bright fuchsia red.

Eye Shadows

Then there is the Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Premier Regard ($62) – a beautifully neutral palette with shades of velvety beige, subtly shimmery taupe grey, soft pink and deep black. The shimmer is very subtle, so it’s very wearable all year round and not just for Fall’s party months. All four shades have different textures, ranging from shimmer, completely matte, matte with sparse shimmer to pearly. Plus, there is medium colour pigmentation with buildability, so chances of getting it wrong are pretty non-existent.

The collection also has a range of single Soft Touch Eyeshadows ($34), which run the gamut from a sheer gold (Eclaire) to a matte black (Noir) – these might be a better bet for darker skin tones, who will find that the soft pink and beige don’t really show up much on their eyelids, making half of the Quadra palette redundant.

Eye Liners

The Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long Lasting Eyeliner ($30) in Noir Intense is a darkly pigmented black that’s just soft enough to apply easily without tugging. With black eyeliners it’s a balancing act between the softness that gives greater pigmentation and a harder texture that makes it less prone to smudging – in Noir Intense, Chanel manages to find the perfect equation. However, it’s not a standout performer and I would much rather stick to MAC’s Eye Pencil in Engraved, which is my usual pick for the ultimate sooty black eyeliner. Instead, if I had to pick a liner from this collection, it would be Silver Light, which is a gorgeously shimmery limited edition.

Blush

The Chanel Powder Blush in Rose Initial ($48) is rosy pink with super-subtle light-reflecting properties. In the pan, it looks bright pink, though on my skin I detected maybe a tiny hint of peach (maybe because of the fine shimmer that gives a glow to the skin). Like most of Chanel’s powder-based products, this one is also perfumed, which doesn’t bother me but might be an issue for someone with a sensitive nose. Texture-wise, this is a powder version, which I prefer to the baked compacts that sort of become too dry over time.

Lip Colours

Amongst the lip colours, the anchor point is the Rouge Coco Shine lipstick in Chic ($39), which is a sheer beige sheen with fine gold shimmer, while the shimmery Glossimer Lip Gloss in Sweet Beige ($31) is a slightly sugary beige. Another standout is the Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss ($32) in Troublant – a violet-plum brown shade with a high pigment load for more opaque shine. My favourite, however, is the Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour ($34) in Almandine, a red-plum that Jac is wearing in the campaign shoot.

Rouge Coco Shine lipstick in Chic

Glossimer Lip Gloss in Sweet Beige

Rouge Allure Extrait de Gloss in Troublant

Rouge Double Intensite Ultra Wear Lip Colour in Almandine

Final Thoughts

The colours and textures are interesting though some of them seem to be rather too heavily inspired by the brand’s past bestsellers and there is an element of playing it safe that underlines all the products. Except for the nail polish in Vertigo and maybe the lip colour in Almandine, there doesn’t seem to be any standout shade for which you wouldn’t find a close enough match in another brand or even in Chanel’s own archives. C’mon Peter! Where are the equivalents of all those gorgeously experimental and thoroughly memorable jades and denims of seasons past????

Filed Under: Beauty, Blush, Celebs, Classic, Eyes, Makeup, Nails, Powder Tagged With: 2012, almandine, Beauty, beige, Blush, Chanel, Cosmetics, Eye Liner, eye shadow, Fall, highlighter, illuminating powder, Les Essentials de Chanel, lip gloss, Lipstick, Lumiere d'Artifices, Makeup, Nail Polish, Palette, rouge allure, rouge coco, vertigo

Monday morning mood makeovers!

April 30, 2012 By anubha Leave a Comment

Having a “Bah! Humbug!” Monday morning? Banish the blues with a round-up of the most dazzling offerings floating around the beauty aisles – served up in in easy 30-second chunks to flip through when your bosses (or juniors – sometimes they can be just as annoying!) are not looking! What are you putting your money on?

1. Dolce & Gabbana Monica Lipsticks

Bold, dramatic, ultra-glam and with superb staying power (a friend who tested them out said they lasted her through an entire dinner, four flutes of Champagne, digestifs and coffee) Dolce & Gabbana’s new super-pigmented lipsticks are the perfect ode to their namesake muse – Monica Bellucci. Definitely not for those who want to blend into the background!

2. Ladurée’s Diamond Jubilee Macaroons

Yes, yes! I know this is not exactly “beauty” related but it’s Ladurée and French and British and the queen all rolled into one, so how could one resist? The Diamond Jubilee selection of macaroons come in a Union Jack box decorated with the crown and the Jubilee emblem. It will be available in Ladurée shops across London, Paris and New York from June 1, for €15.50.

3. Annick Goutal Nuit Étoilée

Described as “Narnia in a bottle” (and what a gorgeous bottle!), Nuit Étoilée has been inspired by Van Gogh’s Starry Night and is woven with Siberian pine, sweet orange, balsam fir, tonka bean, citron, angelica, everlasting flowers and peppermint (which brings a unique hint of chill to the fragrance). For once, a perfume evokes what the press release promises:

“Imagine, perhaps, a majestic forest where waterfalls flow between the trees, where aromatic fragrances scent the skin, and where delicate leaves form soft and inviting beds. Here, the sheer immensity of the moonlit countryside consorts with absolute serenity beneath a veil of shimmering stars.”

4. Givenchy Éte á Fleur de Peau Eye Liner

A nude eye liner? This is something totally new for me and I am waiting to see how it works. Apparently this star product from Givenchy’s new Éte á Fleur de Peau summer collection is quite a multi-tasker – you can also use it as an eye primer or lip liner. At £15 that’s quite a steal, even if it doesn’t really make much of an impact on the eye liner front (*sceptical*).

5. Swarovski Crystal Gloss Jewels

Sometimes beauty and jewellery come together in a totally irresistible combination – like these gorgeous, GORGEOUS Swarovski glosses (can be used on eyes and lips) that you can wear around your neck as a statement piece. They have a lovely shine, thanks to the powdered, micronized Swarovski crystal iridescent pearls in the formula and come in three variations – Transparent Shimmer (£48), Glistening Pink (£48) and Silver Shimmer (£55).

Filed Under: Beauty, Celebs, Eyes, Makeup, Perfumes, Trend Watch Tagged With: annick goutal, Éte á Fleur de Peau, Beauty, crystal gloss, diamond jubilee, Dolce & Gabbana, Eye Liner, fragrance, Givenchy, highlighter, jewels, Kaajal, Kajal, Laduree, lip gloss, Lipstick, macaroons, monday, monica, nude, nuit etoilee, perfume, queen, starry night, swarovski, union jack, van gogh