Sisi: Modern-day beauty tips from a 19th century Empress

I have been pretty much obsessed with Sisi – Empress Elisabeth of Austria (1837-1898) – ever since I first saw her portrait in Vienna four years ago. Stunningly beautiful, with a tiny waist that even four pregnancies could not alter, a perfectly oval face, delicate features and sparkling eyes, it is not surprising that she was often compared to Titania, the fairy queen.

sisi-beauty-secretsHow beautiful she is!” exclaimed the Shah of Persia when he first met her, abandoning all protocol. But then protocol was not something that ever bothered this non-conformist who was the most legendary beauty of her times and left a heritage of skincare and haircare that is indispensable even today. Actually, especially today.

Sumptuous skincare secrets

Have I mentioned that Sisi was really, really beautiful? And that her skincare went from the romantic to the bizarre? Some of these recipes are simply decadent, like the strawberry face mask, while others are a bit gross, such as the raw veal she applied on her skin at night or the slug cream, which took more than 12 hours to make! For our purposes, we shall stick to the more can-do-in-the-21st-century-home stuff here.

Olive Oil Bath: Sisi took a warm olive oil bath every evening to keep her skin soft and smooth – a practise that’s lauded by spas till date. Olive oil contains vitamins A and E, which are intensely nourishing, along with a host of antioxidants that guard against environmental toxins. To make your own olive oil bath, simply pour a cup-full of warm, extra-virgin olive oil in the bathtub and fill with warm water. Or slather your body with warm (not hot) olive oil, leave it on for 5-10 minutes, then rinse off with warm water.

19th century beauty, hair, skin, , Empress Elisabeth, Austria, Bavaria, Germany, Sisi, Sissi, Sissy, veal face mask, hay spa, sisi face creamFace Mists: Sisi relied heavily on rose or lavender face mists to protect her skin against inflammation and infections. Her favorite was violet vinegar, made from freshly picked violet blossoms, cider vinegar and distilled water: Layer the violet blossoms (or rose petals) into a bellied bottle and douse them with cider vinegar. Shut tightly and allow to infuse for two days. Then filter through a sieve and press out the blossoms with a wooden spoon. Take some distilled water and stir violet powder (or powdered rose petals) into the mixture until smooth. Add it to the distilled water and shake thoroughly together.

Hay Wraps: The Austrian Empress also enjoyed full body wraps made out of hay. Ironically, a number of luxury spas are now offering this as a “brand new” and “innovative” ritual to that fortifies the immune system and boosts metabolism!

Egg White Face Mask: A really simple and effective way of toning the complexion, Sisi’s favorite face mask needs 2 oz rose water, 1 oz milk, ½ oz press-pressed grape juice, 2 quintchens crushed frankincense and 2 whipped egg whites. Combine all ingredients, except the egg whites. When everything is well mixed, fold in the egg whites and immediately apply the paste to your face and hands. Go to bed and rinse off in the morning. Sisi believed (and modern-day dermatologists agree) that if you use this mask thrice weekly for a fortnight, you will be closer to a peaches-and-cream complexion.

Honey & Strawberry Face Pack: To keep her complexion soft, Sisi would slather her cheeks with pure honey and crushed strawberries – thereby calling upon the effects of modern fruit acids that cleanse, exfoliate and brighten the skin. And that’s not all: this face pack also reinforces the skin’s resistance to environmental stress and strengthens its immunity.

Rose Cream (my personal favourite!): History says that Sisi never left home without this rosy moisturizer. To prepare, crush 20-25 rosebuds and simmer them in a covered pan filled with 1/8th litre distilled water for 45 minutes. Add 50g lanolin and 20g fresh, unsalted butter to the concoction; then put everything in a high speed blender till it forms a creamy consistency. Keep in the fridge and apply to your face every morning for glowing skin.

sisi-beauty-secrets-2And the ones you might want to skip…

Veal Face Mask: Sisi applied slices of raw veal to her face during the night, binding it with a leather mask that kept the meat in constant contact with her skin while sleeping. Gross as this sounds, dermatologists say that it’s ”not half bad”. The high vitamin C content has an anti-inflammatory effect, while the protein element (keratin) acts against skin ageing. Moreover, the meat gives skin a fresh look and neutralises harmful metabolites (free radicals). Lady Gaga, are you listening?

Slug Cream: Again gross but it’s already making a comeback, with celeb proponents swearing by its skin-smoothing benefits. I have even found the original recipe for you: Put ½ kilo lard into water-bath, add 2 quintchen (fifths) marshmallow roots and 70g ground slugs. Let it stand for four hours to cool off. And then hop in! Weird much?

Intrigued? Here is a place where you can buy raw veal; the slugs you will have to collect from your own garden.

Crowning glory… in royal style

sisi-hair-beauty-secretsSisi’s ankle-length hair was her pride and joy, even though it was so long and heavy that the weight often gave her headaches. She would sit on a low chair and a silk cloth would be placed beneath her hair while it was brushed. Then her hair dresser would comb and style the tresses into elaborate ‘dos. After dressing, braiding and pinning for hours, each one of the fallen strands had to be presented in a silver bowl to the Empress for inspection. This operation would last almost three hours, during which time Sisi kept herself busy by learning languages such as Hungarian and Greek.

Washing her hair was another very time consuming operation, performed every fortnight with a mixture of cognac and egg yolk. Considering the length and volume of her tresses, it’s no wonder that it took the empress an entire day to complete this ritual! Sigh… for such luxury!

Next, the royal coiffure was sprinkled with jewels – the most famous of which are the diamond stars made by the court jeweller Koechert. Finally, Sisi’ tresses were sprayed with Creed’s Fantasia de Fleurs EDP – a heady and ebullient floral fragrance created specially for the empress. An  exceptional blend, it contained a regal bouquet of the best Bulgarian roses and Florentine irises to evoke an intoxicating stroll through the secret garden of the queen’s inner court.

Of 19-inch waists…

Sisi had a tiny 19-inch waist (gulp!), maintained with extremely rigorous exercise. The Empress was obsessed with gymnastics, which attracted a lot of criticism as women of this era simply did not sweat. She even had a gymnastics room installed at her palace and could often be seen dangling from the rings!

The Austrian empress also took up fencing in her 50s. A fervent horsewoman, she rode every day for hours on end, becoming the world’s best female equestrian at the time. When she could no longer endure hours in the saddle due to gout, Sisi went for very long walks that could last up to 10 hours!

sisi-beauty-secrets-3At night, she was heavily massaged and slept with cloths soaked in either violet or cider vinegar to preserve her slim waist, while her neck was wrapped with cloths soaked in Kummerfeld-toned washing water. In the last years of her life, Sisi became even more obsessive, weighing herself up to thrice a day. She began to live on a diet of meat juice, fresh milk and egg whites. Well! Think of it this way – if Sisi had been a Page 3 celeb today, she might have lived off coffee and cocaine. But since this was the 19th century, she survived on the squeezed juices of steak. In her later years, she ate mostly sorbets, which I like to imagine were made with fruit.

However, Sisi did have one indulgence! Despite her strict steak-juice drinking, sorbet-snacking habits, the Empress would wander through to Demel for boxes of candied violets. Today, she’s still immortalized on many boxes in Vienna. And in our hearts. Beautiful, extravagant, sweet and gracious, she was a woman way ahead of her times who spent her life yearning for a measure of happiness but never found it. She would have been happier married to a minor princeling but it was her fate to be Empress of Austria. Today, the world remembers her as one of history’s most fascinating and beautiful women. Her life story has been the subject of several books, movies (including a hugely popular trilogy starring Romy Schneider) and a long-running musical. But I wonder if that’s consolation enough for a life only half-lived?

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Raise your glass to… Juniper Sling by Penhaligon’s

Strong, smoky eyes are ruling the beauty runways.

Flapper-style shingle bobs are back on the circuit.

The fashion trends are more Brooks Brothers than a Princeton reunion.

And Baz Luhrmann’s much-anticipated The Great Gatsby is all set to open at Cannes tomorrow (finally!).

Now all you need is a fragrance to match the ’20s fever and everything is set for a 21st century revival of the Jazz era, which is all the rage this season.

Enter Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling – both cocktail and eau de toilette, in keeping with the decade of decadence.

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Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling: The Fragrance

Penhaligon’s master perfumer, Olivier Cresp (the man who brought Angel into the world), based the unisex fragrance on the scent of London Dry Gin and the “bright young things” who drank gin-based beverages in 1920s Great Britain. Don’t worry though, it won’t leave you smelling like a lush.

In fact, Cresp has come up with an intriguing yet delicate fragrance which blends head notes of orange brandy, cinnamon, angelica, and of course, juniper berry with heart and base notes of cardamom, black pepper, orris, brown sugar and leather. It’s unusual – chilling and bracing at the same time – and quite exhilarating.

I have never ever put on this scent and not had at least one person ask me what I am wearing. And it looks stunning on a dressing room table. A word of warning though: you may feel the need to hunt down a smoking jacket post-application.

Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling: The Cocktail

Penhaligon’s has now teamed up with Hendrick’s Gin and Happiness Forgets to create a Juniper Sling cocktail inspired by the notes of this intoxicating fragrance. Crafted by Bar Manager Geoff Robinson, it combines the bitter notes of lemon juice with the freshness of juniper and sweetness of sugar syrup, to provide a delightfully refreshing tipple for our palettes. Personal experience tells me that you will be making jug after jug for your friends and yourself.

And here’s how to go about doing just that!

Courtesy Penhaligon's

Courtesy Penhaligon’s

Who will be trying a Juniper Sling cocktail sometime soon?

Out of nail polish remover? Use perfume

Yesterday I was swatching Chanel’s new summer nail polishes (posting them soon) when hubbie calls and says we have to go for a formal dinner. And then I realise there is not a single drop of nail polish remover in the house.

So, nails covered in 4 different colours that needed to come off ASAP, it was time to risk this really strange tip I had once heard backstage at Paris Fashion Week: spritz some perfume on a cotton ball and use it to wipe away the nail polish. And know what, it took a couple of minutes of wiping but the nail polish came off completely!

Apparently, perfumes contain ethyl acetate – which is also a key ingredient in most nail polish removers. I used Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Gioia though you can pick and choose from whatever takes your fancy :) Wouldn’t recommend this as a daily regimen though. Not only is perfume more drying than most good nail polish removers but the latter also cost a lot less!

What’s your secret remove-nail polish-in-a-pinch tip?

Is your fragrance wrong for you?

Like that statement bag and killer heels, your perfume says a lot about you. However, with the sheer number of options available, choosing a new fragrance might seem like a task that requires an army of professionals. Simply tackle your scent wardrobe with these easy tips.

WHAT’S YOUR STYLE?

how-to-choose-perfumeFirst, you have to decide what you want your scent to say.

  • If you are the sexy and glamorous type who likes to make an immediate impact, opt for a lush, oriental scent with a heavy touch of vanilla (a known aphrodisiac) and patchouli. Judith Leiber Topaz and Gucci Guilty have the right balance of poise and sensuality.
  • Lovers of classic elegance (think Ralph Lauren and Hermès) need a sumptuous, well rounded scent with a bold floral note like violet and iris. Or opt for a fragrance underlined with warm woods and soft leathers. Top picks: Tom Ford Violet Blonde and Hermès Santal Massoia.
  • And then there are the bold trendsetters and risk takers, who live for the latest collections hot off the catwalk. If you fall in this genre, experiment with exotic, intriguing ingredients (such as amber) that are formulated in an intense, attention-getting form. Best options: Balenciaga Paris L’Essence and Tom Ford Amber Absolute. These are definitely not for wallflowers!

So, what are you wearing this weekend?

Pretty Prints: Chanel No. 5 (All Under $50!)

Chanel No. 5 is not just the most iconic perfume in the world, it’s also the one that has been most sketched, inked or painted in the history of fragrances. So, what better way to celebrate the cult classic’s 92nd birthday (it was first introduced to select clientele in Chanel’s Rue Cambon boutique on May 5, 1921) than with a selection of the most gorgeous Chanel No. 5 illustrations? And they are all priced at under US$50, which means they are affordable for us mere mortals. Will you be dressing your walls with one of these pretty prints?

From Nina Garcia’s Book “The One Hundred”, illustration by Ruben Toledo

From Nina Garcia’s The One Hundred – illustration by Ruben Toledo – www.amazon.com

1921 illustration by Georges Goursat Sem

1921 illustration by Georges Goursat Sem – www.amazon.com

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Painting by Andy Warhol – www.amazon.com