Sisi: Modern-day beauty tips from a 19th century Empress

I have been pretty much obsessed with Sisi – Empress Elisabeth of Austria (1837-1898) – ever since I first saw her portrait in Vienna four years ago. Stunningly beautiful, with a tiny waist that even four pregnancies could not alter, a perfectly oval face, delicate features and sparkling eyes, it is not surprising that she was often compared to Titania, the fairy queen.

sisi-beauty-secretsHow beautiful she is!” exclaimed the Shah of Persia when he first met her, abandoning all protocol. But then protocol was not something that ever bothered this non-conformist who was the most legendary beauty of her times and left a heritage of skincare and haircare that is indispensable even today. Actually, especially today.

Sumptuous skincare secrets

Have I mentioned that Sisi was really, really beautiful? And that her skincare went from the romantic to the bizarre? Some of these recipes are simply decadent, like the strawberry face mask, while others are a bit gross, such as the raw veal she applied on her skin at night or the slug cream, which took more than 12 hours to make! For our purposes, we shall stick to the more can-do-in-the-21st-century-home stuff here.

Olive Oil Bath: Sisi took a warm olive oil bath every evening to keep her skin soft and smooth – a practise that’s lauded by spas till date. Olive oil contains vitamins A and E, which are intensely nourishing, along with a host of antioxidants that guard against environmental toxins. To make your own olive oil bath, simply pour a cup-full of warm, extra-virgin olive oil in the bathtub and fill with warm water. Or slather your body with warm (not hot) olive oil, leave it on for 5-10 minutes, then rinse off with warm water.

19th century beauty, hair, skin, , Empress Elisabeth, Austria, Bavaria, Germany, Sisi, Sissi, Sissy, veal face mask, hay spa, sisi face creamFace Mists: Sisi relied heavily on rose or lavender face mists to protect her skin against inflammation and infections. Her favorite was violet vinegar, made from freshly picked violet blossoms, cider vinegar and distilled water: Layer the violet blossoms (or rose petals) into a bellied bottle and douse them with cider vinegar. Shut tightly and allow to infuse for two days. Then filter through a sieve and press out the blossoms with a wooden spoon. Take some distilled water and stir violet powder (or powdered rose petals) into the mixture until smooth. Add it to the distilled water and shake thoroughly together.

Hay Wraps: The Austrian Empress also enjoyed full body wraps made out of hay. Ironically, a number of luxury spas are now offering this as a “brand new” and “innovative” ritual to that fortifies the immune system and boosts metabolism!

Egg White Face Mask: A really simple and effective way of toning the complexion, Sisi’s favorite face mask needs 2 oz rose water, 1 oz milk, ½ oz press-pressed grape juice, 2 quintchens crushed frankincense and 2 whipped egg whites. Combine all ingredients, except the egg whites. When everything is well mixed, fold in the egg whites and immediately apply the paste to your face and hands. Go to bed and rinse off in the morning. Sisi believed (and modern-day dermatologists agree) that if you use this mask thrice weekly for a fortnight, you will be closer to a peaches-and-cream complexion.

Honey & Strawberry Face Pack: To keep her complexion soft, Sisi would slather her cheeks with pure honey and crushed strawberries – thereby calling upon the effects of modern fruit acids that cleanse, exfoliate and brighten the skin. And that’s not all: this face pack also reinforces the skin’s resistance to environmental stress and strengthens its immunity.

Rose Cream (my personal favourite!): History says that Sisi never left home without this rosy moisturizer. To prepare, crush 20-25 rosebuds and simmer them in a covered pan filled with 1/8th litre distilled water for 45 minutes. Add 50g lanolin and 20g fresh, unsalted butter to the concoction; then put everything in a high speed blender till it forms a creamy consistency. Keep in the fridge and apply to your face every morning for glowing skin.

sisi-beauty-secrets-2And the ones you might want to skip…

Veal Face Mask: Sisi applied slices of raw veal to her face during the night, binding it with a leather mask that kept the meat in constant contact with her skin while sleeping. Gross as this sounds, dermatologists say that it’s ”not half bad”. The high vitamin C content has an anti-inflammatory effect, while the protein element (keratin) acts against skin ageing. Moreover, the meat gives skin a fresh look and neutralises harmful metabolites (free radicals). Lady Gaga, are you listening?

Slug Cream: Again gross but it’s already making a comeback, with celeb proponents swearing by its skin-smoothing benefits. I have even found the original recipe for you: Put ½ kilo lard into water-bath, add 2 quintchen (fifths) marshmallow roots and 70g ground slugs. Let it stand for four hours to cool off. And then hop in! Weird much?

Intrigued? Here is a place where you can buy raw veal; the slugs you will have to collect from your own garden.

Crowning glory… in royal style

sisi-hair-beauty-secretsSisi’s ankle-length hair was her pride and joy, even though it was so long and heavy that the weight often gave her headaches. She would sit on a low chair and a silk cloth would be placed beneath her hair while it was brushed. Then her hair dresser would comb and style the tresses into elaborate ‘dos. After dressing, braiding and pinning for hours, each one of the fallen strands had to be presented in a silver bowl to the Empress for inspection. This operation would last almost three hours, during which time Sisi kept herself busy by learning languages such as Hungarian and Greek.

Washing her hair was another very time consuming operation, performed every fortnight with a mixture of cognac and egg yolk. Considering the length and volume of her tresses, it’s no wonder that it took the empress an entire day to complete this ritual! Sigh… for such luxury!

Next, the royal coiffure was sprinkled with jewels – the most famous of which are the diamond stars made by the court jeweller Koechert. Finally, Sisi’ tresses were sprayed with Creed’s Fantasia de Fleurs EDP – a heady and ebullient floral fragrance created specially for the empress. An  exceptional blend, it contained a regal bouquet of the best Bulgarian roses and Florentine irises to evoke an intoxicating stroll through the secret garden of the queen’s inner court.

Of 19-inch waists…

Sisi had a tiny 19-inch waist (gulp!), maintained with extremely rigorous exercise. The Empress was obsessed with gymnastics, which attracted a lot of criticism as women of this era simply did not sweat. She even had a gymnastics room installed at her palace and could often be seen dangling from the rings!

The Austrian empress also took up fencing in her 50s. A fervent horsewoman, she rode every day for hours on end, becoming the world’s best female equestrian at the time. When she could no longer endure hours in the saddle due to gout, Sisi went for very long walks that could last up to 10 hours!

sisi-beauty-secrets-3At night, she was heavily massaged and slept with cloths soaked in either violet or cider vinegar to preserve her slim waist, while her neck was wrapped with cloths soaked in Kummerfeld-toned washing water. In the last years of her life, Sisi became even more obsessive, weighing herself up to thrice a day. She began to live on a diet of meat juice, fresh milk and egg whites. Well! Think of it this way – if Sisi had been a Page 3 celeb today, she might have lived off coffee and cocaine. But since this was the 19th century, she survived on the squeezed juices of steak. In her later years, she ate mostly sorbets, which I like to imagine were made with fruit.

However, Sisi did have one indulgence! Despite her strict steak-juice drinking, sorbet-snacking habits, the Empress would wander through to Demel for boxes of candied violets. Today, she’s still immortalized on many boxes in Vienna. And in our hearts. Beautiful, extravagant, sweet and gracious, she was a woman way ahead of her times who spent her life yearning for a measure of happiness but never found it. She would have been happier married to a minor princeling but it was her fate to be Empress of Austria. Today, the world remembers her as one of history’s most fascinating and beautiful women. Her life story has been the subject of several books, movies (including a hugely popular trilogy starring Romy Schneider) and a long-running musical. But I wonder if that’s consolation enough for a life only half-lived?

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Heat Got You Down? Make a Keep-Your-Cool Face Mist

Remember when you were a kid and all you wanted to do on hot summer days was run through every sprinkler in the neighborhood? The face mist is a grown-up version of those cooling, refreshing sprinklers – spritzing your overheated skin without getting chased off a stranger’s lawn. On top of that, a face mist also helps tone your skin, wards off excess oil, hydrates a dry complexion, soothes irritation, protects against environmental toxins and restores skin’s pH balance. And it helps to refresh and enliven your mood with fragrant aromatherapy oils.

Plus, a face mist is ridiculously simple to whip up and there are many different variations for various skin types. So, if you have issues with greasy or dehydrated skin, or if you just get extra-toasty in the summer heat, this may be your ticket to relief!

face-mistAloe Face Mist for Dry & Sensitive Skin

How-to: Fill a small spray bottle halfway with natural aloe vera juice. Then add enough orange blossom water to nearly fill the bottle to the top. Add 3 drops of lavender essential oil. Shake well; spray this mist on your face and neck whenever skin starts to feel dry.

Why it works: Orange blossom water calms and tones with its gentle astringency, while lavender essential oil helps reduce inflammation and gives skin a nourishing boost. Aloe vera moisturizes and encourages skin repair and healing, making it perfect for dry, sensitive, and damaged skin. Taken together, these ingredients keep skin looking dewy and moist instead of dull and dry.

Citrus Face Mist for Acne-Prone Skin

How-to: In a big pot, boil 2 cups of distilled water, 1 grapefruit (cut into chunks with the skin still on) and 2 tablespoons of rosemary (fresh or dry). Once the mixture comes to a boil, turn the heat down to medium and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Then remove the pot from the heat and let everything steep for another few minutes. Finally, strain the liquid to remove the grapefruit and rosemary, let it cool, pour it into a spray bottle and refrigerate.

Why it works: Grapefruit’s natural cleansing action helps battle acne, while refreshing the face and giving the complexion a nice pick-me-up. The rosemary, in the meantime, helps fade acne scars and blemishes. Voila!

Rose Hip & Calendula Face Mist for Oily Skin

How to: Mix 4 drops of organic Calendula oil, 4 drops of Argan oil, 6 drops of Rose Hip oil and enough orange blossom water to fill 3/4 of your spray bottle. Mix well and store in the refrigerator; shake before use to ensure that ingredients are properly blended.

Why it works: Sounds counter-productive but Argan oil is terrific at busting excess oil that may get caught in your pores. Similarly, Calendula oil is great for sensitive or inflamed skin, making it a good choice to bust breakouts. And Rose Hip oil helps to heal both inflammation and scarring. Finally, the orange blossom water acts as a potent toner, helping to combat oil levels.

face-mist-2Green Tea Face Mist for Sun-Scorched Skin

How to: Place 1 tablespoon each of dried sencha (Japanese green tea), dried ginseng root, whole dried chamomile flowers (or one tea bag of chamomile tea) and 1 teaspoon lime peel in a glass jar. Pour 1 cup of hot water over the ingredients and steep for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid and add 1 tablespoon of witch hazel (optional), 10 drops of tangerine essential oil, 5 drops of basil essential oil and 5 drops of peppermint essential oil. Store in a dark glass bottle and refrigerate.

Why it works: The antioxidant powers of green tea are great for reversing the effects of environmental toxins and guarding against sun damage. At the same time, the reviving qualities of ginseng, refreshing lime, chamomile flowers and aloe vera leave skin softened, hydrated and regenerated.

Rose Hip & Chamomile Face Mist for Dull Skin

How to: Blend together 3.5 oz of strongly brewed rose hips tea, 3.5 oz of strongly brewed chamomile tea and 2 oz of aloe vera juice; pour everything into a spray bottle. Mist generously and leave to absorb. Can also be misted on top of makeup for a dewy look.

Why it works: Rose hips contain nature’s highest concentration of vitamin C, which strengthens collagen and perks up the complexion. Chamomile soothes and calms, while aloe vera is lightly hydrating and eliminates redness. Result? This energizing face mist is perfect for use as a skin brighter or a quick pick-me-up.

Beauty Secrets of the Ancient Geishas

Every time I travel to Japan, my skin develops an inferiority complex. I mean, have you ever seen those Japanese women with their smooth, glowing, absolutely flawless skin? There is not a single blemish or an enlarged pore to be seen anywhere. And this time it was even worse, considering that I was in Kanazawa to meet with one of the greatest cultural icons of all times: an honest-to-goodness geisha. One of those magical superwomen who can seduce with a downward glance, fascinate with her silent sensuality and entrance with a flick of the wrist. And then there is that unbelievably smooth, porcelain-like skin, glossy hair and ruby red lips that are unrivalled across the world.

So, this time I decided to tackle the eternal question: what are the secret skincare and haircare recipes that make geishas so beautiful, so ageless and so dazzling? There really just a few of them and they can be incorporated in daily life to get those results.

geisha-beauty-secretsSea Salt

Since Japan sits on the waters, it makes sense that sea salt would be a part of the geisha’s skincare routine. Salt is a wonderful body scrub, while also being terrific for cellulite. However, unlike us mere mortals who mix it with oil, the Japanese geishas prefer whipped cream. Follow suit by blending 2 tablespoons of sea salt with a little whipped cream to create a body scrub. Massage in circular motions over warm skin, preferably halfway through a shower. Finally, rinse and finish off with body lotion. Massaging with sea salt breaks down fat and makes skin firm and smooth. Easy, ain’t it?

Rice Bran

The chemical composition of rice bran is similar to that of human skin. Add to this its potent water retaining and exfoliating abilities and you can see why this husky flour has been a skincare staple of the geishas since 1100 AD. An added bonus: while other scrubs can tear and damage the skin cells, rice bran leaves them rejuvenated, cleansed and healthy. For the best results, mix 1 tablespoon of rice bran flour with enough milk or yoghurt to form a smooth paste. Apply this to warm, freshly cleansed skin and leave on till dry (approximately 10 minutes). After that, remove the mask using warm water and circular motions of your fingertips. Pat dry and apply your usual skincare.

Rice

The beauty benefits of rice have been treasured for hundreds of years by women not only in Japan but also in Indonesia and other Asian countries. That’s because rice is rich in gamma-oryzanol – a powerful antioxidant that boosts collagen production. The most popular rice mask involves powdering 2 tablespoons of rice in a coffee grinder. Mix this rice flour with 1 tablespoon of whipped cream. Apply this paste to your face and neck; rinse after 20 minutes.

Persimmon

Known as the fruit of the Gods in ancient Greece, persimmon contains calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, iodine and super-high levels of vitamins. Japan’s geishas understood the multifaceted benefits of this fruit and used it in many different ways – from face masks to skin tonics and detox diets. A favorite recipe: mix 1 tablespoon of mashed persimmon with 1 teaspoon each of honey and egg yolk. Apply to clean skin and leave for 15-20 minutes before washing off with warm water. This face mask will hydrate, nourish and protect against environmental damage.

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Green Tea

Green tea is loaded with polyphenols, which fight free radicals, reduce skin inflammation, provide protection against skin cancer and bust any nasty toxins or bacteria that may be lingering in your pores. Geishas are famous for their elaborate tea ceremonies, often involving green tea, but it is a less widely known fact that they use that very same tea to keep their skin glowing and gorgeous. How? Boil, strain and cool 1 cup of green tea. To this, add 1/2 cup ground oats, 1 tablespoon avocado oil or mashed avocado and 10 drops lemon juice. Mix the ingredients into a paste that you apply on clean face. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then remove with washcloth and lukewarm water. Do this twice a week for skin that absolutely radiates its flawless perfection.

Apple Cider Vinegar

The enzyme-rich apple cider vinegar literally melts away dead skin cells. Which is why geishas add it to their shampoo to prevent dandruff and stimulate hair growth. They also add it to the bath to keep their skin young and healthy. Follow in their footsteps by mixing organic apple cider vinegar in the ratio of 1:1, soaking a cotton pad in the mixture and patting it onto your skin. Leave on skin for 5-7 minutes, then wash off with plain water. The result? Clean and fresh new skin.

Camellia Oil

Japanese women have known for centuries about the wonderful haircare benefits of camellia oil. It is exceptionally high in oleic acids, proteins and glycerides that are perfect for maintaining hair health, as well as adding volume and gloss. And using it is super-simple: lightly heat 1 teaspoon of camellia oil and rub it along the length and tips of wet hair. Then cover your strands with a towel for 20 minutes. Finally, shampoo your hair and rinse well; condition as usual.

Will you be trying any of these secret beauty recipes of the geishas? Tell me in the comments section below!

Three Beauty Mistakes We Are All Making

Thinking two litres of water are enough

beauty-mistakesWater flushes out toxins to keep our complexion clear, rehydrates the cells to moisturise skin from the inside and maintains the vital balance of nutrients to make everything soft, supple and beautiful. That’s why most of us religiously glug down two litres of water every day. However, research has now proved that these 6-8 glasses are not enough and water needs vary according to your weight, health, activity levels, diet and climate.

For example, a woman who weighs 165 pounds (75 kgs), exercises for 45 minutes, lives in a moderate climate and has one alcoholic or caffeine-laced drink should have approximately 2.9 litres of water through the day. What’s your number? Try the water calculator here. And remember that skin is the last in a long line of water recipients through the body – digestive systems and vital organs being the first – so any shortfall will show up on your complexion immediately!

Not applying enough sunscreen

Feel proud of yourself for remembering to apply that SPF 30 UVA/UVB sunscreen every single morning? Most probably, it’s still falling far short of the mark. Studies prove that almost all of us use about half the amounts at which the sunscreens are tested – which means that the label may say SPF 30, but you are actually getting just SPF 12 or 15.

So, what’s the right amount? According to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, you need to apply sunscreen in amounts of 2 mg per square centimetre of skin. Since most of us are not really going to sit and calculate to this detail, here is a thumb rule: A teaspoon each on the chest and stomach combined, the back, and each leg; plus half a teaspoon each on the head and neck combined (including the ears) and each arm. Then re-apply every 2-4 hours, depending on the SPF and whether you are in the house or on the streets.

beauty-mistakes-sunglassesNot wearing sunglasses

While sunglasses have now become a fashion statement rather than a functional accessory, not wearing them when you step out of the house can be hazardous to the skin around your eyes. Skipping the shades will not only increase your chances of vision deterioration and cataracts, it will also make your eyes look ghastly in the here and now.

Remember that the skin under your eyes also has melanin, which reacts to sunlight and produces pigmentation that leads to dark circles. Plus all that squinting quickens fine lines, wrinkles and crows feet.

Yes, You Can Reverse Sun Damage!

We are all guilty of occasionally skipping the sunscreen – here’s how to reverse the consequences.

What damage can the sun wreak?

Plenty – including a reduction in the production of collagen and elastin (which keep skin firm and plump), slowing down the natural exfoliation of dead skin cells and hyper-pigmentation. This sun damage is cumulative, showing up over time as ugly wrinkles, blotches, dark spots, sagging skin and a dull complexion.

However, microscopic examination of the skin shows that it has the capacity to repair itself after sun damage – provided it’s not subjected to further assault from the sun. Using sunscreen is therefore crucial in starting the repair process. In fact, an Australian study has shown that sunscreen can even reverse the activity of precancerous cells.

sun-damage

Banish the tan

Try this kitchen-shelf remedy to counter the most visible sign of sun damage – make a paste by mixing three parts of milk with one part of turmeric powder. Apply all over your face, let dry and rub off in circular motions before rinsing away the residue.

Re-hydrate

The sun strips the face of natural moisture, so replenish with a good water-based moisturizer to avoid dullness or fine lines. A persistent layer of dead skin cells is another prime concern – tackle with glycolic peels, regular exfoliation or an at-home microdermabrasion kit.

Bust the dead skin cells

Topical application of Retin A, a Vitamin A-derivative, can help normalize sun damaged cells. It also plumps up skin’s topmost layer, revives collagen and elastin, increases blood flow to the skin, and sloughs off dull, dead skin cells.

Neutralise toxins

Also look for antioxidant-based formulations – they neutralize the toxic by-products created by sun damage. Prime picks include green tea, copper and Vitamin C. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, topical green tea can even inhibit the growth of cancerous cells.

sun-damage-2Soothe a sunburn

To ease your misery and soothe the skin after sun damage, chop a cucumber, then puree with one tablespoon of chilled milk. Apply this paste over scorched areas and rinse off after 15 minutes. Repeat twice a day for best results.

Or freeze chamomile tea in an ice tray, wrap the cubes in a dry flannel cloth and pat over your face.

Yoghurt is another brilliant soother for sunburnt skin. To minimize the dreaded flaking, pat on a mix of equal parts cold milk and cold water with cotton pads.

If you need off-the-shelf relief, look for products containing anti-inflammatory and cooling ingredients like Aloe Vera and Vitamin E. Two good bets? Clarins After Sun Gel Ultra-Soothing and Body Shop Aloe Soothing Day Cream.

Don’t ignore your hair 

A study by the Rene Furterer Research Centre reveals that just three days of intense sun exposure can wreck the hair cuticle, which leads to super-dry strands, discoloration and dullness. Replenish with a good after-sun product containing Shea butter, lecithin of egg and soy, or essential oils of sesame, lemon, mint, camphor or eucalyptus.