Get Your SPF Sans the Greasy Sunscreen (Really!)

May 8, 2013 By 4 Comments

Despite knowing that we should wear sunscreen every day, most of us don’t for a very good reason: it’s sticky. And gloopy. And gross. And as for reapplication… is anyone really going to slather on another layer of sunscreen over foundation? Exactly.

Thankfully, there are alternatives. The new powder sunscreens – lightweight mineral blends that provide chemical-free broad spectrum protection – are the ultimate in summer salvation. They dust on invisibly over makeup while absorbing excess oil, leaving a smooth finish. Powder sunscreens are also easy to apply and feel absolutely weightless. Plus, they work instantly – you don’t have to wait 30 minutes before stepping out into the sun.

Are they effective, you ask? I have fair skin that blushes bright red within 15 minutes of soaking in the sunlight. Yet, every time I use a powder sunscreen, my skin remains pearly white. And since the active ingredients in a mineral powder won’t break down in a hot car as quickly as liquid formulas, you can safely keep one stashed in the glove compartment. And it’s something you can throw in your bag without fear of spilling because of the brush or sponge mechanisms. Reapplying just got really, really easy.

With one caveat: powder sunscreen is not so great around water. So when you hit the beach, stick to the slimy stuff. But for everyday wear, try the powder. You won’t look back.

Chantecaille Protection Naturelle SPF 46+++ Loose Powder Sunscreen, $72

powder-sunscreen-1Yes, this is definitely a splurge product but I love it for a number of reasons. Firstly, Protection Naturelle combines a lightweight, flaw-minimizing powder with a high value, natural SPF AND lauroyl lysine, a naturally occurring amino acid that conditions the skin. Plus, it’s innovative mineral powders naturally absorb excess surface oil without drying the skin, thereby doing double duty as a finishing powder that simply melts into the skin. The product is completely invisible and doesn’t affect the way my makeup looks underneath. The (refillable) tube with the built-in brush is travel-friendly and ideal on the go – I’ve come to rely on it for quick touch-ups through the day. If there is one drawback, it’s that the Chantecaille built-in brush is definitely not in the same league as any of my favorite Kabukis’.  Still, the quality of the powder and the convenience are unbeatable, so Chantecaille Protection Naturelle SPF 46+++ Loose Powder Sunscreen is my constant companion these days.

Bare Minerals SPF 30 Natural Powder Sunscreen, $28

powder-sunscreen-2This one’s my go-to budget powder sunscreen option. It’s got the perfect amount of color to let me skip tinted moisturizers and foundation during the daytime. Plus, the just-opaque-enough coverage level reduces the appearance of redness, imperfections, blemishes and visible pores. However, it’s a tad difficult to blend – especially on the bridge of the nose, for some weird reason. Also, while it’s superb at sopping up excess oil from greasy skin, those with dry complexions will need to up the hydration as it will parch the skin further. So, in short, if your skin is oily and you have the time/patience to properly buff it in, the Bare Minerals SPF30 Natural Powder Sunscreen is a superb option.

Colorescience Sunforgettable Powder Sunscreen, $50

powder-sunscreen-3Colorescience was one of the first brands to bring out powder sunscreens and they have a great lineup. There are multiple shades – including all clear (no color), perfectly clear (hint of color) and almost clear (a bit deeper color). You can even choose to have a little sparkle, if that fits your personality. Personally, I always opt for the shimmer because that lets me skip the illuminator and highlighter. Plus, you can pick between a self-dispensing brush, a shaker (sprinkle the powder and apply with a puff) or a roller ball for even application. The powder itself is lightweight and can easily double up as a sheer base or be called upon to set your makeup, while simultaneously tackling greasy skin or shiny spots.

Peter Thomas Roth Instant Mineral Powder Sunscreen SPF 45, $32

powder-sunscreen-4Peter Thomas Roth is the one I bring out when my skin is feeling particularly sensitive or acne-prone. The formula is pretty light and it totally kills the shine, making it perfect for sweaty afternoons. There is also a good choice of colors – from tinted, which helps even out the complexion to sheer, which is simply for sun protection. The only problem? Some people find the brush to be a bit rougher than natural bristles, so try it out before buying.

Jane Iredale Powder Me Dry Sunscreen SPF 30, $54

powder-sunscreen-5Jane Iredale has a puff-like applicator and in-built mirror that make applying on-the-go super-easy. The label says it’s best used on moisturized skin, so I put it on about 20 minutes after applying my moisturizer. It goes on cleanly and doesn’t clog my pores. However, there are only 2 color options: Translucent and Tan. And since “tan” can mean different things to different people, either try out the product before you buy or stick to Translucent.

Philosophy The Supernatural Airbrushed Canvas SPF 15 Powder Sunscreen, $45

powder-sunscreen-6This one is actually more foundation than sunscreen. The SPF15 means its sun protection is rather limited and you will have to keep touching up every couple of hours. However, it gives superb coverage – almost like a full fledged foundation – that’s perfect for disguising skin imperfections. Plus, the puff applicator simply melts the product into your skin. And there are 7 colors to choose from, which makes Supernatural seriously versatile.

iS Clinical Powder Sunscreen UVA/UVB Protection SPF 20, $43

powder-sunscreen-7While this loose mineral powder is great for broad spectrum sun protection, the high amount (45%) of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide make it exceptionally drying and difficult to blend. And though the cylindrical packaging seems ideal for on-the-go use, the powder tends to over-dispense onto the built-in brush so there is a lot of wastage. Between that and the fact that powder tends to get all over the container no matter how careful you are, this is a tough sell.

Éminence Organic Sun Defense SPF 30 Powder Sunscreen, $58

powder-sunscreen-8Eminence contains a combination of natural sunscreens and yet is totally smooth, transparent, fine and natural-looking. Skin-balancing, it blends perfectly and leaves no chalky residue. Available in several shades, you can swipe it on bare skin or on top of your makeup to provide sheer, long lasting protection that can easily be reapplied throughout the day. Perfect for UV-sensitive complexions.

Physicians Formula Airbrushing Pressed Powder Sunscreen, $19.99

powder-sunscreen-9This one is another star. Not only are the 2 shades – Translucent and Creamy Natural – a perfect fit for all kinds of complexions, the antioxidants from chamomile, ginseng, ginko biloba and green tea actually improve skin quality with every application. And that’s not all: the Physicians Formula pressed powder sunscreen
comes with a modified kabuki-inspired brush that makes application super-easy and totally streak-free.

The Body Shop Extra Virgin Minerals Powder Foundation SPF20, $25

powder-sunscreen-10Made with ultra-fine mineral pigments, this powder foundation applies evenly and blends easily to give a natural-looking complexion with a glowy finish. Available in 12 shades, it provides coverage that can be built up from sheer-to-moderate, while also concealing dark spots and blemishes. Toss it in your tote and don’t look back!

Do you use a mineral-powder SPF? What’s your go-to brand?


Filed Under: Beauty, Brands, Organic, Skincare, Sun Protection Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Three Beauty Mistakes We Are All Making

May 4, 2013 By 8 Comments

Thinking two litres of water are enough

beauty-mistakesWater flushes out toxins to keep our complexion clear, rehydrates the cells to moisturise skin from the inside and maintains the vital balance of nutrients to make everything soft, supple and beautiful. That’s why most of us religiously glug down two litres of water every day. However, research has now proved that these 6-8 glasses are not enough and water needs vary according to your weight, health, activity levels, diet and climate.

For example, a woman who weighs 165 pounds (75 kgs), exercises for 45 minutes, lives in a moderate climate and has one alcoholic or caffeine-laced drink should have approximately 2.9 litres of water through the day. What’s your number? Try the water calculator here. And remember that skin is the last in a long line of water recipients through the body – digestive systems and vital organs being the first – so any shortfall will show up on your complexion immediately!

Not applying enough sunscreen

Feel proud of yourself for remembering to apply that SPF 30 UVA/UVB sunscreen every single morning? Most probably, it’s still falling far short of the mark. Studies prove that almost all of us use about half the amounts at which the sunscreens are tested – which means that the label may say SPF 30, but you are actually getting just SPF 12 or 15.

So, what’s the right amount? According to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, you need to apply sunscreen in amounts of 2 mg per square centimetre of skin. Since most of us are not really going to sit and calculate to this detail, here is a thumb rule: A teaspoon each on the chest and stomach combined, the back, and each leg; plus half a teaspoon each on the head and neck combined (including the ears) and each arm. Then re-apply every 2-4 hours, depending on the SPF and whether you are in the house or on the streets.

beauty-mistakes-sunglassesNot wearing sunglasses

While sunglasses have now become a fashion statement rather than a functional accessory, not wearing them when you step out of the house can be hazardous to the skin around your eyes. Skipping the shades will not only increase your chances of vision deterioration and cataracts, it will also make your eyes look ghastly in the here and now.

Remember that the skin under your eyes also has melanin, which reacts to sunlight and produces pigmentation that leads to dark circles. Plus all that squinting quickens fine lines, wrinkles and crows feet.

Filed Under: Beauty, Bodycare, Eyes, Skincare, Sun Protection Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Yes, You Can Reverse Sun Damage!

April 27, 2013 By 3 Comments

We are all guilty of occasionally skipping the sunscreen – here’s how to reverse the consequences.

What damage can the sun wreak?

Plenty – including a reduction in the production of collagen and elastin (which keep skin firm and plump), slowing down the natural exfoliation of dead skin cells and hyper-pigmentation. This sun damage is cumulative, showing up over time as ugly wrinkles, blotches, dark spots, sagging skin and a dull complexion.

However, microscopic examination of the skin shows that it has the capacity to repair itself after sun damage – provided it’s not subjected to further assault from the sun. Using sunscreen is therefore crucial in starting the repair process. In fact, an Australian study has shown that sunscreen can even reverse the activity of precancerous cells.

sun-damage

Banish the tan

Try this kitchen-shelf remedy to counter the most visible sign of sun damage – make a paste by mixing three parts of milk with one part of turmeric powder. Apply all over your face, let dry and rub off in circular motions before rinsing away the residue.

Re-hydrate

The sun strips the face of natural moisture, so replenish with a good water-based moisturizer to avoid dullness or fine lines. A persistent layer of dead skin cells is another prime concern – tackle with glycolic peels, regular exfoliation or an at-home microdermabrasion kit.

Bust the dead skin cells

Topical application of Retin A, a Vitamin A-derivative, can help normalize sun damaged cells. It also plumps up skin’s topmost layer, revives collagen and elastin, increases blood flow to the skin, and sloughs off dull, dead skin cells.

Neutralise toxins

Also look for antioxidant-based formulations – they neutralize the toxic by-products created by sun damage. Prime picks include green tea, copper and Vitamin C. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, topical green tea can even inhibit the growth of cancerous cells.

sun-damage-2Soothe a sunburn

To ease your misery and soothe the skin after sun damage, chop a cucumber, then puree with one tablespoon of chilled milk. Apply this paste over scorched areas and rinse off after 15 minutes. Repeat twice a day for best results.

Or freeze chamomile tea in an ice tray, wrap the cubes in a dry flannel cloth and pat over your face.

Yoghurt is another brilliant soother for sunburnt skin. To minimize the dreaded flaking, pat on a mix of equal parts cold milk and cold water with cotton pads.

If you need off-the-shelf relief, look for products containing anti-inflammatory and cooling ingredients like Aloe Vera and Vitamin E. Two good bets? Clarins After Sun Gel Ultra-Soothing and Body Shop Aloe Soothing Day Cream.

Don’t ignore your hair 

A study by the Rene Furterer Research Centre reveals that just three days of intense sun exposure can wreck the hair cuticle, which leads to super-dry strands, discoloration and dullness. Replenish with a good after-sun product containing Shea butter, lecithin of egg and soy, or essential oils of sesame, lemon, mint, camphor or eucalyptus.

Filed Under: Beauty, Bodycare, Hair, Skincare, Sun Protection Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

What You (Still) Don’t Know About Sunscreen

April 12, 2013 By 6 Comments

Did you know that skin actually starts to thicken itself as a form of defence against sun damage? And that leads to a thick layer of dead skin cells that clogs pores, creates zits and makes the complexion seem totally dull and lifeless? Despite having been a Beauty Editor and writing this blog, where I have preached about sunscreen often enough, this was something that had totally escaped my knowledge.

Which led me to thinking what else remains unknown or unnoticed about the subject and I have been making calls to experts ever since. Some of the information might leave you surprised as well.

  • sunscreenPeople who wait 2.5 hours to reapply sunscreen instead of 2 hours have a five times greater chance of burning.
  • Sunscreens usually expire after a year. The active ingredients break down, especially when exposed to heat (like in your car or a day bag), which not only gives you less protection but might also cause an adverse reaction on your skin. How to tell if your sunscreen has gone bad? Look out for an abnormal consistency (too thick or too thin), grittiness or separation of the layers.
  • A classic white T-shirt averages a UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) of 7. A long-sleeved dark denim shirt, on the other hand, offers a UPF of about 1,700. On the same lines, unbleached cotton contains special pigments — lignins — that absorb UV rays. Similarly, some silks and polyesters reflect radiation, hence protecting skin against the sun.
  • People with dark skin still need sunscreen as the deepest melanin only rates an SPF 2 protection from UVB rays. It offers no protection against UVA rays or free radicals.
  • 90% of wrinkles are caused by sun exposure. So that means if you adequately protect yourself from the sun, you will have less wrinkles.
  • Your risk for skin cancer increases every time you peel. Five sunburns doubles your risk for melanoma.
  • Some of the ingredients used in today’s sunscreens – like rice bran extracts, jasmine, and lupine extract – are actually ancient Egyptian discoveries. Gamma oryzanol extracted from rice bran has UV-absorbing properties, jasmine helps mend skin damage and lupine extract lightens the skin.
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Serum, sunscreen, moisturizer… what goes on first?

April 4, 2013 By 4 Comments

In what order should I apply serum, sunscreen and moisturizer? What goes on first?

sunscreenAnswer: This depends on whether you are using a physical or chemical formulation. Check the label – if it lists Parsol, mexoryl, oxybenzone or avebenzone as an ingredient, the formula is chemical. If it does not contain any of these and lists zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, it’s physical. If, however, it contains ingredients from both categories, treat it as chemical.

Chemical sunscreens need to sink into the skin, so they go first – apply them onto clean, dry skin, wait a minute and then follow up with serum and moisturizer (in that order).

Physical sunblocks, on the other hand, create an opaque barrier on your skin and won’t allow any other product to work effectively over them – so, if you put moisturizer over sunblock, the latter will stop the former from being effective. Plus, the act of putting on the moisturizer or serum over the physical formulation can give the sunblock a patchy effect, thereby reducing your sun protection. So it should be serum (the lightest product always goes on first), then moisturizer, then sunblock.

Foundation, concealer, powder etc go on last in both cases!

Keep writing in with your questions!

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