Clay masks 101: Which type of clay is best for YOUR skin. And hair.

While I have yet to achieve Louis Litt’s levels of clay masking (remember that legendary clay bath in Suits?), the lure of a simple clay face mask that literally sucks out toxins from deep under skin that’s besieged with pollution, sweat, makeup and other kinds of pore-clogging grime is massively ooh-worthy!

That’s why this innocuous natural product, which literally comes from the earth and has been used by some of history’s most gorgeous women (think grand beauties like Cleopatra and Yang Guifei) since ancient times, is fast becoming one of the trendiest staples in today’s beauty circles.

From facial masks and soaps to foundations and hair conditioners, clay mask’s benefits seem to be just everywhere.

Cases in point: L’Oréal Paris Pure Clay Masks, Christophe Robin Cleansing Volumizing Paste, Fresh Umbrian Clay Treatment Bar, Tarte Clay Stick Foundation, Sunday Riley Ceramic Slip French Green Clay Cleanser, Kopari Pink Souffle Body Mask and Bumble and bumble Bb. Pret-a-Powder Tres Invisible Dry Shampoo with French Pink Clay… to name just a few beauty formulation that have clay as one of the key ingredients.

I told you, everyone is calling upon clay face masks! And clay hair hair masks!

How to use a face clay mask? Or a hair clay mask?

It’s one of the simplest beauty recipes to put together. Mix the clay of your choice with a liquid (warm water / milk / essential oils / apple cider vinegar / rose water / yogurt / witch hazel / aloe vera… the possibilities are endless) and apply a thin layer over the surface of your skin. Clean ingredients, no harsh chemicals and easy application. That’s all!

But not all cosmetic clays are made the same. 

Some are deep cleansing, while others nourish or moisturise. 

Then there are those that boost blood circulation or help reduce cellulite. 

There’s a clay mask for acne and there’s one to soothe inflamed skin. 

There’s another one to detox the scalp. 

And yet one more to soothe away fine lines. 

And to reduce the appearance of pore size.

And to fade away dark spots.

Another major point of consideration for a facial mask: Is your skin oily or dry? Sensitive or on the mature side?

So, clay masking is definitely not a one-size-fits-all beauty solution but there’s a clay mask to suit all kinds of skin types. And skin problems. And hair problems. You just need to know where to look.

So, which one to choose? Bentonite? Kaolin? Fuller’s Earth? 

Which are the best clay masks for your skin type? 

And to sort out your specific complexion or hair issues?

Let’s figure it all out with a deep dive into all the different types of clay.

Calcium bentonite clay mask

Best for: Deep cleansing, appearance of acne, water retention, oily skin

This fine-particled, grey-green clay (avoid the white clay variety in bentonite — it’s over-processed) comes from volcanic regions and is rich in magnesium. 

A calcium bentonite clay masks signature is its unique molecular structure, which develops an electrical charge and swells up like an open sponge when mixed with water.

This makes it particularly great at sucking out toxins, bacteria, fungus, oils and even excess sodium (hello water retention and puffiness) from the skin’s follicles.

All properties that make bentonite the perfect clay mask for acne-prone skin, excessive greasiness, enlarged pores, as well as complexions subjected to pollution or prone to chronic infections. 

It’s also great as a spot treatment for that humongous zit!

On the other hand, drier skin types should try and avoid bentonite clay — definitely don’t use it more than once a week.

Fuller’s earth

Best for: Hyperpigmentation, deep cleansing, oily skin

This ancient volcanic ash sediment — also known as Multani mitti — is so absorbent that it’s even called upon to soak up small oil spills and draw out poisons from the body. 

It looks very similar to bentonite clay and is again great at drawing out toxins, excess oil and other impurities from the skin.

However, it has one additional property: Clay masking with Fuller’s earth is also great for treating hyperpigmentation and dark spots because of its mild bleaching action.

Kaolin clay mask

Best for: Softening, exfoliating, deep cleansing, dry patches, boost blood flow, revive dull skin

This finely milled clay is the gentlest of all and comes in many colours. Also known as China clay, white kaolin (which is also used to make porcelain) is the mildest. 

And rather than being absorbent, it has gentle exfoliation that’s great for softening the complexion and improving skin texture with regular use. 

This make a white kaolin clay face mask perfect for dry, sensitive complexions.

Yellow kaolin is a little more absorbent and exfoliating, with the additional benefit of busting dead skin cells and boosting skin circulation for healthy skin.

Red kaolin is the most absorbent, making it the perfect clay mask for acne, along with oily and congested skin.

Pink kaolin (also known as rose clay or pink clay mask) is a mixture of white and red clay — this clay mask’s benefits are great for oily yet sensitive skin that needs medium-level exfoliation and detoxification.

French clay mask

Best for: Fine lines, enlarged pores, acne, oily or damaged skin

Made of mineral-rich volcanic ash mined from the bedrock quarries of France, this green clay’s molecular structure helps pull out deeply seated toxins and heavy metals, bust blemishes, soak up excess oil, improve skin tone, neutralise free radicals, boost circulation and balance skin’s pH levels.

This clay face mask is also a great anti-ager, given its toning action, which boosts circulation to repair damaged skin, soothes out fine lines and reduces the appearance of enlarged pores.

Use a French clay mask for acne prone skin and oily complexions — it may be too drying for those on the other end of the spectrum. It also works great for body wraps and foot soaks!

Rhassoul clay mask

Best for: Blackheads, calming, softening, deep cleansing, dry skin, scalp detox

Mined from Morocco’s lava fields, Rhassoul clay is a detoxifying clay mask with dual actions.

The science reads: This traditional clay mask contains a super-potent blend of minerals and is negatively charged. Since most skin toxins are positively charged, the latter quality literally helps suck out blackheads (it’s seriously the best treatment for blackheads!), excess sebum and other debris out of skin pores.

The inherent minerals simultaneously tone, calm and soften the skin. 

This means Rhassoul is not as drying as bentonite or Fuller’s earth, making it a great clay masking option for combination skin and dry skin as well. This makes it the best mask for daily cleansing (this is the tub of clay you will ALWAYS find in my bathroom).

Rhassoul also makes a super clay masking treat for our hair and scalp, since it sops up excessive oil, pollutants and product buildup. That’s why you will find it in so many hair formulations nowadays!

Umbrian clay mask

Best for: Soothing, calming inflammation, enlarged pores

Indigenous to the Umbrian region of Italy, this clay mask’s benefits include being super-loaded with minerals and is also highly absorbent. 

While being great for detoxifying and de-greasing, this type of clay mask also benefits the skin by also helping maintain its pH levels, soothing irritation, calming inflammation and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores.

Umbrian clay mask’s benefits are best suited for normal to oily complexions, though drier ones that are tempted by its other benefits can also bring it out once a week. 

For best results, the trick is to not let it dry on your face completely; rinse off after 5-10 minutes, while the clay is still a bit wet to the touch. This will stop it from dehydrating your skin.

Blue clay mask

Best for: Nourishing, anti-ageing, blood circulation, mature skin

One of the rarest cosmetic clays, blue clay is found in Siberia and has an exceptionally high mineral content. 

Besides being super-absorbent and drawing out impurities, this creamy clay mask also nourishes the skin, stimulates blood circulation and tones the complexion.

This makes it the perfect clay face mask for mature skin, since it has a potent anti-ageing action, ironing away fine lines, stepping up cell metabolism to keep wrinkles at bay, while restoring suppleness and elasticity.

Dead Sea mud

Best for: Calming, nourishing, enlarged pores, cellulite, sore muscles, dry skin, sensitive skin

Though this is technically not just clay — mud is a mixture of soil, silt, clay and water — the terms are often used interchangeably in the beauty industry. 

And Dead Sea mud is one seriously cult skincare ingredients, revered for its super-high concentrations of salts and minerals (specially magnesium, sodium, calcium and potassium).

This makes it a terrific clay face mask for deep cleansing and exfoliating, while killing acne, nourishing the skin, restoring pH levels, treating skin conditions like psoriasis and eczema, toning and clarifying the complexion, improving its texture and even smoothing out cellulite and stretch marks.

Clay masking with Dead Sea mud also has another huge benefit: It is great at easing out the pain of sore muscles, combatting inflammation and relaxing the mind and body, hence appearing in a lot of body masks and scrubs.

It is good for all types of complexions, including dry and sensitive skin types.

European moor mud

Best for: Detoxifying, soothing joints and muscles, cellulite

Also known as Balneoo peat, European moor mud actually contains almost no clay. Instead, it’s made up from the organic residue of multifarious flowers, herbs and grasses, which bestow it with the richness of natural enzymes, minerals, amino acids and vitamins for clearer skin. 

Originating from Hungary and the Czech Republic, its high humic content makes European moor mud a potent anti-inflammatory and circulation booster, which helps detoxify the body, decongest the skin, soothe joint inflammation, ease achy muscles and smooth away cellulite.

European moor mud is highly soluble in water, so it won’t clog up your bath tub either.

Have you tried clay masking for the face? Or a clay mask’s benefits for your hair? How was your experience?