If there is one thing I love more than a gorgeous makeup look, it’s a gorgeous makeup look that can be recreated at home. By humans. By normal humans. Without the need for calling in the expert cavalry, buying eight zillion new products or learning the fine points of Monet’s brushwork. Thankfully, this Fall-Winter’s makeup trends are pretty mere-mortal-savvy and won’t even require a paint-by-the-numbers guide to get it right.
That’s because fashion, at large, is embracing a more casual approach to luxury this Fall… less highfalutin diva and more glamazon-come-undone. Like an off-duty model leaving an all-night party in the smoky haze before the crack of dawn. Everything’s a bit dishevelled, smudged, ruined… and she’s had too much fun to even care about how badly her lipstick is smeared. Think smokey, causal, fun, unstructured and just a little bit vampy.
Sounds up your street? Read on for tips on what you need (at least in terms of makeup) to welcome the new, chillier season!
Mind over matte
Let’s get the toughest part out of the way first: this season’s skin is perfect. Absolutely and completely perfect. Flawless, unblemished, smooth, matte. Healthy and immaculately groomed, it glows (not shines) like a fine velvet fabric. However, this doesn’t mean that we mere mortals need to sit it out with a paper bag over our assorted blemishes and lack of inherent radiance. While skincare is going to be paramount in the long term, you can cover the signs of less-than-perfection with the bevy of tools at our command. This is the time to bring out those foundations, concealers, powders and mousses, but keep them on the translucent side for a more natural and less flat look.
Tip: It’s all in the skin itself. Backstage artists spent five times as long on the skin than the rest of the makeup at shows like Isabel Marant and Victoria Beckham. Follow suit by first massaging skin with a non-greasy oil like Rodin Olio Lusso. Follow with foundation, using a flat makeup brush for streak-free, flawless coverage. Dab concealer on imperfections, then dust loose powder all over to set the look and eliminate shine. Finish with highlighter on key spots: cheekbones, the bridge of your nose and the inner corners of your eyes.
Get the Look: Becca Ever-Matte Poreless Priming Perfector, Maybelline Dream Matte Mousse, NARS Sheer Matte Foundation, Marc Jacobs Beauty Genius Gel Super-Charged Foundation, Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish Sheer Perfect Makeup, Guerlain Tenue de Perfection Foundation SPF 20, Lancome Teint Visionnaire 2-in-1 Corrector and Perfecting Makeup, Bare Minerals Matte Foundation Broad Spectrum SPF 15, Dolce & Gabbana Makeup Perfect Finish Concealer Pen. Runway Image by Isabel Marant
Cheeks have a healthy, just-been-to-the-Spin-class or on-the-ski-slopes flush for Fall 2013. “It’s a natural look that conveys confidence,” says Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux, who used cream blusher backstage at Moschino.
Tip: Placement is key. If you want the British rosy cheek look, go for the apple. Want something a little less girlish and a bit more womanly? Place color slightly lower. Team with flawless, even skin (there we go again!) and make sure there’s no shine in your T-zone.
Get the Look: Givenchy Le Prisme Powder Blush in Vintage Pink, Maybelline Dream Touch Bouncy Blush #6, Clarins Blush Prodige in Miami Pink, Smashbox O-Glow Intuitive Cheek Color, Cargo Blush in Catalina, Tory Burch Bronzer & Blush, Tarte Cosmetics Maracuja Blush & Glow, Too Faced Sweethearts Perfect Flush Blush in Candy Glow, Yves Saint Laurent Voile De Blush Gel Blush in Pink Veil, By Terry Hyaluronic Blush in Bubble Glow, Daniel Sandler Watercolour Blusher in Cherub, Josie Maran Argan Color Stick in Rosy, Make Up Forever HD Microfinish Blush in Nip Slip, Guerlain Terracotta Blush Sun Shimmer Highlighter in Sunny Pink, Vapour Organic Beauty Aura Multi Use Blush in Intrigue. Runway Image by Felder Felder
This one’s my least favorite beauty trend from Fall-Winter 2013 and one that I am not likely to follow. Not this season, not ever later. However, if you do like the Cara Delevingne look, this is the time to follow in her bushy-browed footsteps. Statement arches, after all, were everywhere backstage at the Fall shows – bushy and untamed for Isabel Marant and Haider Ackermann; opaque black for Jean Paul Gaultier; and neat yet strong for Chanel, Chloe and Stella McCartney.
Tip: Under no circumstances is this an excuse to give up eyebrow grooming. Simply ease up on the threading, tweezing and waxing to let your brows become bolder. Or use an eyebrow powder to get the look. Or just skip it altogether. Whatever.
Get the Look: NYX Eye Brow Marker, NARS Eyebrow Pencil, Lord & Berry Magic Eyebrow Pencil, The Balm Eye Believe, NYX Eye Brow Push-Up Bra, Clarins Pro Palette Eyebrow Kit, Shiseido Eyebrow Styling Compact, H&M Eyebrow Pencil, Make Up For Ever Eyebrow Pencil, Bobbi Brown Brow Pencil, Yves Saint Laurent Eyebrow Pencil, Cle de Peau Beaute Enigmatique Eyebrow Pencil, NYX Auto Eyebrow Pencil, Illamasqua Eyebrow Cake
This one’s not going away anytime soon but Fall’s cat eye is definitely easier to pull off than past versions. That’s because it’s no longer as super-precise as traditional feline looks. Instead, Fall’s version of the cat eye is thicker, more angular and is definitely not supposed to look perfect – more like smoky meets feline. In fact, a little messiness might just get you extra points!
Tip: This cat eye is deceptively easy – color your whole lid with eyeliner, then clean up any rogue pigment with a makeup-remover-soaked cotton swab.
Get the Look: Sephora Collection Jumbo Liner 12HR Wear Waterproof, Cargo TexasLiner Liquid Eye Liner, NYX Super Fat Eye Marker in Carbon Black, Smashbox Love Me Paint Pen Eye Liner in Jet Black, Illamasqua Precision Gel Liner in Infinity, Laura Mercier Crème Eye Liner in Noir, Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Liner in Black Ink, Maybelline Gel Liner in Blackest Black, NYX The Curve Liner in Jet Black. Runway images by Anna Sui
Put your played-out gold or silver shadow aside: rusted copper and smoldering bronzed eyes are an ideal way to get a radiant glow during brisk months. “It’s a magical color… maroon makes irises flash like crazy,” says Tom Pecheux.
Tip: For reddish lids that look chic (and not allergy-ridden) apply eye shadow to the whole lid except just below the brow, then finish with black mascara. Sill hesitant? Platinum shadow makes your eyes look huge and it works on fair complexions that shy away from copper.
Get the Look: Jane Iredale Perfectly Nude Shadow Kit, Hourglass Visionaire Eyeshadow Duo in Gypsy, Urban Decay 24/7 Glide On Eye Pencil in Roach, Chanel Stylo Eyeshadow in Cool Gold, Shu Uemura Pressed Eyeshadow in Soft Copper, Lancome Color Design Infinite 24h Crease-Free Luminous Eye Shadow, Clarins Splendours Color Quartet & Liner Eye Palette, Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Beautiful Eyeshadow. Runway image by J Mendel
The thin black line
If you’re not into the 60s-style dark eyes, go for black eye liner in a skinny line along the top lashes. Particularly popular at New York Fashion Week, the thin black line added subtle and almost invisible definition at the likes of Victoria Beckham, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang. This works especially well for daytime jaunts.
Tip: Keep it thin, black and right next to the lash line for maximum impact.
Get the Look: Diorshow Art Pen Eyeliner in Catwalk Black, Lord & Berry Luxury Eye Liner, Marc Jacobs Beauty Magic Marc’er Precision Pen Eyeliner, Shu Uemura Painting Liner in Black, Guerlain Liquid Eyeliner in Noir Ebene, Rimmel ScandalEyes Waterproof Gel Eyeliner in Blackest Black, Clarins Instant Liner, Revlon ColorStay Liquid Liner in Blackest Black, MAC Liquidlast Liner in Point Black, Smashbox Limitless Liquid Liner Pen in Jet Black, Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner in Carbon Black, Rimmel London ScandalEyes Micro Liner, Giorgio Armani Maestro Eye Liner. Runway image by Alexander Wang
It’s like a classic Miranda Priestly moment: Red lips? For Fall? Ground breaking. Yet it’s a fact that nothing says Fall-Winter more than a red lip. Though, with a twist. It’s time to abandon that letterbox red or cherry-hued lippie; this season’s version is darker and touched with a hint of black in a nod to gothic sophistication. Think oxblood or a very, very deep maroon. Although a shade this deep may seem intimidating, I swear it is superbly flattering on every skin tone.
Tip: You don’t have to be very precise with the application here. In fact, more than one makeup artist has suggested blotting around the outer lip lines to get a “smeared” effect. At Bibhu Mohapatra, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury softened the color with a cotton swab. You can also apply with your fingertips to create a soft stain. Oh! And you get bonus chicness point for keeping it matte.
Get the Look: Giorgio Armani Rouge Ecstasy, Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture in #1 Le Rouge, Chanel Rouge Allure Luminous Intense Lip Color in Coromandel, Clarins Rouge Eclat Lipstick in Passion Red, Armani Beauty Rouge Sheer d’Armani Lipstick in Red Carpet, Marc Jacobs Beauty Lip Gel in Neo-Noir, Christian Dior Rouge Dior Lipstick in Dolce Vita Red, Sisley Hydrating Long Lasting Lipstick in L29, NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Mysterious Red. Runway image by Dolce & Gabbana
High-impact lips in wine hues and pink semi-stains are probably the most wearable makeup trend to come out of the Fall-Winter 2013 shows. As Tom Pecheux put it, “…spiked with a dash of burgundy and a hit of black, plum lipstick becomes sophisticated in a twisted kind of way.” I like!
Tip: Apply straight from the tube, blot, reapply and blot again. You don’t want it to look very immaculate. And keep the rest of your makeup minimal.
Get the Look: Tom Ford Beauty Lip Color in Bruised Plum, Smashbox Be Legendary Lipstick in Black Plum, Burberry Lip Cover Soft Satin Lipstick in Bright Plum, Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte SPF15 in Forbidden, MAC Mineralise Rich Lipstick in Lush Life, Chantecaille Lip Chic in Violetta, L’Oreal Colour Riche Lip Balm in Tender Mauve, Clarins Joli Rouge Lipstick in Royal Plum, Giorgio Armani Rouge d’Armani Lasting Satin Lip Color in Plum. Runway image by Marni
Why play around with timid neutrals? A chocolate brown lip color is like a “tougher, more intense version of nude,” says Pecheux. A creamy finish keeps it from looking too biker-chic.
Tip: Pecheux tapped the bullet directly onto the lips until he built up the color to the desired intensity. Other factors to consider: eye shadow (a light wash of taupe) and mascara (loads).
Get the Look: Bobbi Brown Sheer Color Lipgloss in Rich Chocolate, Smashbox Be Legendary Lipstick in Chestnut, NARS Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Marina, L’Oreal Paris Color Riche Le Gloss in Chocolate Obsession, Dolce & Gabbana Makeup Passion Duo Gloss Fusion Lipstick in Devotion, Jane Iredale Chocoholicks Lip Gloss Palette, Hourglass Femme Rouge Velvet Creme Lipstick in Fresco, Kevyn Aucoin The Flesh Tone Lip Pencil in Deep, NARS Sheer Lipstick in Tanganyka, Giorgio Armani Rouge D’Armani Lipstick in 205 Brown, Maybelline Color Sensational Lip Color in Barely Brown, Vapour Organic Beauty Siren Lipstick in Dare. Runway image by 3.1 Phillip Lim
Which Fall 2013 makeup trend catches your fancy? And is there one that you wouldn’t touch in a million years?