Yesterday, I was browsing the beauty aisles for a last minute gift and stumbled across Issey Miyake’s Pleats Please. The first thing that caught my eye was the bottle – it’s almost like someone was holding it in their hand and crumpled it like a piece of paper! It looked just really cool, so I gave it a sniff. And the scent surprised me – even though the bottle’s all sharp angles and edges, the fragrance seems dainty, almost retro and very feminine. Lovely!
Pleats Please is a classic “fruity floral”. At first spray, what hits the nose is a mouth-wateringly juicy, sparkly fruitiness. Though I couldn’t actually detect nashi (an Asian hybrid fruit created by crossing apples and pears) it is undeniably fruity. This fruitiness lasts about five minutes before the floral bouquet starts to emerge and the fragrance moves from being purely fruity to fruity floral. These fruity floral notes linger on my skin for around two hours before the dry down takes over. Then come the vanilla notes, which gives the fragrance a creamy warmth. It is definitely more vanilla than musk and with the fruity notes still hovering around, this produces a gorgeous combination. The dry down is actually my favourite part of the perfume, which is a good thing as it lasts another 2-3 hours on me.
In addition to creating the new fragrance, a lot of thought and design has also gone into designing the bottle. Pleats Please is inspired by Issey Miyake’s signature fashion collection of pleated materials and bright colours that follow movements of the body. It was first created for a ballet at the request of choreographer William Forsythe in the ’90s. Then, little by little it was integrated into Miyake’s work, until it became his very signature by 1993. Cut and sewn from fabric that is nearly three times bigger than the final pieces, the garments were fed into a pleats machine to combine texture and form in a beautiful way.
In fact, Issey Miyake was once quoted as saying: “Pleats never cease to fascinate me, conjuring up a multitude of images. Pleats move and change form with the wearer’s every movement. Whether it’s shirts, skirts, trousers or cardigans, the collection was a triumph of style and wearability, rendered in bright bold colours that added another dimension. As the pleats move they change colours, creating an optical illusion like a kaleidoscope.”
Specifically, inspiration for the fragrance was gleaned from Miyake’s Bao Bao bag, whose fluid facets are absolutely sculptural. Consequently, this fragrance marks a return to the fashion inspiration, pop culture and Japanese traditions of the house.
I find Pleats Please to be more of a fun daytime or chilled out party fragrance rather than an out-and-out evening fragrance. It’s completely different from L’eau D’Issey, which is cool and watery; Pretty Please, on the other hand, is sparkly and vibrant. I have to say that I think I prefer Pleats Please to L’eau D’Issey though perhaps that is just because I have been smelling and wearing L’eau D’Issey for years whilst Pleats Please is all new and shiny!
Price: $114/Euro 92 (100 ml), $76/Euro 62 (50 ml), $55/Euro 45 (30 ml)