Parfum vs EDP vs EDT: What’s the real difference (it’s not just concentration levels!)

A few years back, I had an epiphany in Paris. A huge one: All through the years, I had been wearing a false Chanel No. 5. 

Not fake, just false. That’s because what we know as Chanel No. 5 eau de parfum is not really the legendary fragrance created by Ernest Beaux for Coco Chanel in 1921.

It is, in fact, Beaux’s parfum, as re-imagined for a more contemporary audience by Chanel nose Jacques Polge in 1986. And while a significant part of the different lies in the concentration of oils, that’s only part of the story. 

If, like me, you are only familiar with Chanel No 5 EDT or EDP, discovering the parfum will be like finding a completely different fragrance.

But that’s getting ahead of ourselves. The main question arises: What’s the difference between a parfum (or extrait de parfum), an eau de parfum (EDP), and eau de toilette (EDT)?

The Basics: It Starts With the Concentration

If perfumes were cocktails, the concentration of fragrance oils would be the liquor content—more oil equals more power, intensity, and longevity. 

At its most basic, the difference between parfum, eau de parfum, and eau de toilette boils down to how much of the juice is actual fragrance oil versus alcohol and water.

Here’s a quick breakdown of the typical ranges and how they translate:

Parfum

Contains the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically 20-40%. This rich concentration makes it long-lasting and intense, often lingering for 8 to 12 hours. Once applied, it develops and deepens over time, revealing its complexities layer by layer.

Its oil-based formula can stain fabrics, so let it work its magic directly on your skin. And remember: A little goes a long way. Dab a drop or two onto pulse points like your wrists, neck, or behind the ears.

Eau de Parfum

A step down in concentration with 15-20% fragrance oils. It provides a strong scent lasting 6 to 8 hours, making it ideal for a full workday, an evening out, or even a long-haul flight. A few sprays on pulse points—like the wrists, neck, and even behind the knees—will keep you smelling amazing for hours.

Eau de Toilette

Lighter, with a  5-15% concentration. It’s fresher and more fleeting, generally lasting 3 to 5 hours. Its name comes from the French term “faire sa toilette,” meaning to freshen up—fitting, since EDT is all about quick, refreshing bursts of fragrance that uplift your mood.

EDT is lighter and fades faster, so you can apply it more liberally than Parfum or EDP. Spray it on pulse points like your wrists, neck, and behind the ears—or even your clothes for a more prolonged effect.

Eau de Cologne (EDC)

Contains only 2-5% fragrance oils. It’s the lightest and most refreshing, ideal for a quick splash that lasts 1 to 2 hours. If you’re someone who enjoys reapplying throughout the day, prefers subtle fragrance moments, or simply wants an affordable option to stay refreshed, EDC is a perfect fit!

Here’s why concentration matters:

Strength & Sillage

Higher oil concentration means a stronger scent that projects farther and lingers longer. This “sillage” is what creates that dreamy trail of fragrance as you walk by.

Lower concentrations, on the other hand, sit closer to the skin and are generally lighter.

Longevity

Ever wondered why some perfumes fade before lunch while others stay strong into the evening? That’s the concentration at work. Parfum lasts the longest, while EDT will need a refresh halfway through your day.

Character of the Fragrance

Concentration affects how a perfume unfolds on your skin. Parfum emphasizes base notes—those deep, grounding elements like amber, woods, and musk. 

EDP shines a spotlight on the heart notes, the fragrance’s core, like florals and spices. 

EDT is all about top notes, those sparkling, fresh, and fleeting elements like citrus and herbs.

Alcohol Content

With higher oil concentrations, there’s less alcohol. This not only impacts the scent but also reduces the likelihood of dryness or irritation on sensitive skin. 

Lower oil concentrations, like in EDT, have more alcohol, making them feel cooler and lighter—a bonus for hot, sticky weather!

But Then Come Notes and Ingredients!

Isn’t it just about the proportion of oils to alcohol?

No, it’s not. Definitely and absolutely not. 

As you go up the fragrance ladder, it’s not just the concentration that changes but also the materials and their quality. 

The EDP and parfum versions might have additional notes left out of the EDT altogether because of their price and “heaviness” (EDTs are typically fresher and lighter).

The Case of Chanel No. 5

For example, only the Chanel No. 5 parfum is believed to contain jasmine from Grasse, France—a region renowned for its superior floral harvests. This exquisite ingredient lends the parfum a richer, more opulent depth. 

Meanwhile, the EDP and EDT include jasmine from other regions, offering variations in scent quality and character. 

The result? A more ethereal, accessible version of the same fragrance profile for the EDP and EDT​, the EDP is crafted with flowers from other, lesser sources

Dior’s Miss Dior

Similarly, in the Miss Dior line, the parfum focuses on premium, concentrated floral absolutes. In contrast, the EDP and EDT feature different blends of citrus, woods, and florals. 

These distinctions allow the EDP to feel bolder and the EDT to be lighter and more casual.​

Guerlain’s Shalimar

Guerlain’s Shalimar showcases another example. The parfum emphasizes rare vanilla and iris accords for depth, while the EDP highlights smokier notes like tonka bean. 

The EDT, on the other hand, has a fresher, citrus-forward opening that appeals to those seeking a lighter fragrance.​

And that’s why price matters…

• Chanel Parfum: $260.00 per ounce
• Eau de Parfum: $33.82 per ounce
• Eau de Toilette: $26.47 per ounce
• Body Spray: $13.10 per ounce

What’s your take? Do you wear Chanel No. 5? Which one? Would you rather buy a parfum, an EDP, or an EDT?