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You are here: Home / Fashion / RIP Prabuddha Dasgupta… the beauty maverick who defined a “new” India

RIP Prabuddha Dasgupta… the beauty maverick who defined a “new” India

I will always remember my first conversation with Prabuddha Dasgupta. It was not a pleasant one. I was the Beauty Director at Marie Claire and we needed to commission a shoot on skin lightening beauty treatments. Prabuddha, who shot only those projects that caught his fancy, was initially excited about the idea of doing a black & white spread with ambient lighting – his speciality. But then he heard the storyline and slammed down the phone. Trying to make women want to be fair complexioned? “Please don’t call me with such rubbish again.”

Prabuddha Dasgupta (1960-2012)
Prabuddha Dasgupta (1960-2012)

End of conversation but the beginning of a new story. His argument (one sided as nobody could get in a word when Prabuddha started making a point) convinced me that perpetuating the fair-is-beautiful myth was counterproductive for a dusky skinned country whose women are finally taking the spotlight worldwide because of their natural beauty.

To Prabuddha, this was a political and moral insult – like most colonial countries, “fair” is equated with the upper classes in India and this nonconformist was not just going to dismiss the cliches but also wage a longstanding war against them, in the process defining the beauty of Indian women for a whole generation.

Shooting Lakshmi Menon for Hermes
Shooting Lakshmi Menon for Hermes

This was his greatest signature – images of urban Indian women that represent their strength and stability, emphasising their innermost nuances. Prabuddha was a documentarian of everything that was beautiful according to his own standards, reminding the world that beauty comes in different types, sizes, ages and skin tones.

He shot a new and “real” India, taking it centre-stage on international platforms like Hermes and Louis Vuitton. Not only did he shoot extensively for foreign fashion brands and magazines, his work also took the spotlight in several personal collections and institutions, like Le Cashmerien in Paris, Bodhi Art in New York and Galleria Carla Sozzani in Milan.

And then there was his personal work, which reads like a visual exploration of friendships, family ties, personalities, relationships, personal spaces, journeys and landscapes. In 1996, Prabuddha broke a major taboo by publishing Women, an extremely controversial collection of nudes of urban Indian women. 

His second book – Ladakh – was published four years later and showcased a personal exploration of India’s frontier wilderness. The most recent tome – Edge of Faith – was perhaps closest to his heart, replete with images of Goa, which was this Kolkata-born photographer’s adopted land.

Few did the sensual better than Prabuddha (this is one of his tame shots!)
Few did the sensual better than Prabuddha (this is one of his tame shots!)

Through the years, I followed Prabuddha’s work, hoping that we would shoot together one day. And when the moment came, its magic fulfilled every dream, every expectation. There is so much that stylists, photographers and editors across the world have learnt from this stubborn individualist, especially the need to be true to yourself and your subject.

His lessons worked on a personal level as well: never apologise for who you are and never try to cast yourself according to someone else’s expectations. Over endless tumblers of hot coffee in Goa, he would tell me that the world has a place for every single person regardless of age, complexion or size. We just need to find our space and then stand firm.

Ladakh in all its untamed glory
Ladakh in all its untamed glory

Prabuddha definitely found his space and he filled it with a new aesthetic that has not only come to define the beauty of Indian women but has also changed the way the world looks at our country. His work done, the stubborn maverick went out doing what he loved best – holding the camera.

His sudden and completely unexpected death has shaken the fashion and beauty community across the world. He was just 52-years-old and had many stories left to tell, many images left to render. I can clearly visualise him arguing with God on the creation of a female form up there.

Prabuddha, despite all our arguments, you will be missed more than you can imagine. But your aesthetics and philosophies will love on.

And I shall continue to keep my promise to never air brush a model into milky-whiteness ever again.

Click through some of Prabuddha’s best images… which is your favourite?

Prabuddha Dasgupta (1960-2012)
Shooting Lakshmi Menon for Hermes
Few did the sensual better than Prabuddha (this is one of his tame shots!)
Ladakh in all its untamed glory
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon
Few did the starkly sensual better than Prabuddha
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon
Shooting Lakshmi Menon for Hermes
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes, Hermes, Lakshmi Menon, Ladakh
Ladakh in all its untamed glory
Prabuddha Dasgupta, Prabuddho, Obituary, Death, Photographer, Nudes
Prabuddha Dasgupta

Comments

  1. Arjun L. Sen says

    August 27, 2012 at 12:20

    I was impressed with this excellent and well-considered as well as sympathetic and heartfelt review. You have quickly and clearly brought attention to some key points here about Prabuddha, including his challenge to the 4000-year old “fair skin” value system in India and his central stance on seeing women as self-determining individuals, not adjuncts to a male-ordered world. The phrase “maverick” is right. Prabuddha was a challenging pathfinder in modern Indian culture with a strong sense of our history and roots and therefore the capacity to question some aspects of them as well as a hugely talented artist. I knew him very well as we were friends and college students together back in the seventies.

    Reply
    • anubha says

      August 27, 2012 at 18:05

      Hi Arjun, glad you liked it. Dada’s going has left a huge void and I don’t think any words can do justice to him. I only worked with him in a professional capacity and he left a huge impact on all facets of my work and thought processes. But you knew him on a personal level and so must be feeling his loss even more deeply. May his soul rest in peace, though I don’t think he would be sitting quietly up there either… what do you say????

      Reply
  2. Arjun Sen says

    October 18, 2012 at 15:31

    I’m so sorry to have failed to see your reply in a timely manner. Actually, I’ve been diverted away from this by all sorts of things and I haven’t been back on the Beauty Gypsy site for nearly two months,…

    Even though you knew him more in a professional capacity than a personal one, as you say, I would not underestimate the value of your input. You were clearly very moved by the man and his approach to his work or else you would not have left a significant comment about him. Therefore I very much value your input. Moreover, people who worked with him professionally have an input to his work that I cannot supply – except once, when we were working (unsuccessfully) on the Ladakh book together in 1996-1999. We had very different approaches and drifted apart on that book, but in no way does this detract from the magnificence of his subsequent achievement. My own approach to Ladakh was rather different, perhaps more academic, and better reflected in my 2011 article publised by the India International Centre Quarterly called ‘Celebrating Ladakh,’ although what we shared was at bottom a lyrical, emotional and symbolistic appreciation of Ladakh on which I also grafted social and cultural interpretations which were extraneous to Prabuddha’s interests. A few Ladakh word-pictures also appear on my art website.

    Actually, you may have found a Facebook page which is a dedication to Prabuddha and is filling up with very interesting material on him. A long thread between myself and Prabir C Purkayashtha who himself produced a stupendous book of photographer on Ladakh might be of interest to you and which you can find on the website. Prabuddha himself, and our three-way obsession with Ladakh, is central to that discussion thread. You can see how I really feel about him and about Ladakh in that thread. I know Prabir well and in some ways we communicate better on Ladakh than I could with Prabuddha who, as a man, always found it hard to express his feelings in words, whereas Prabir manages to do it with facility, as I do. Yet, it was Prabiddha’s contribution which began a very special kind of dialogue between the best modern urban Indian sensibility and Ladakh and which remains an essential turning point and even lynchpin for the whole “cultural conversation” we are having about it.

    You can find this link on

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151107071369894&set=o.464067376946763&type=1&theater

    Warm regards

    Arjun

    Reply
    • anubha says

      November 10, 2012 at 22:34

      Hi Arjun, so lovely to hear from you again! Yes, Prabuddha was someone who you could not argue or debate with – it was either his way or you could go to hell. Sometimes, that was part of his charisma. At other times, it irritated one like anything. And there was always the fear of a shoot getting cancelled at the very last minute because he would not want to do certain shots. But given all that, there was so much I learnt from him. He has made me cry, made me laugh, made me angry, made me crave a great shoot. But what he taught me most of all was to think a shot through and through to the tiniest detail and be true to my inner voice rather than get sidetracked by commercialism. And that’s why I will never get over the loss of losing this genius!

      I would love to read the article you have mentioned – anywhere I could get my hands on a copy? Sounds fascinating!

      Reply

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  1. “Eyewitness” – OKTANA by Raskolnick says:
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Scratch that actually... what it needs is its own glass box and spotlight. Get the lips out of the way!!!!!⁠⁣
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This modern Chinese brand is bringing to life heritage Asian legends and crafts for makeup products that have an instant heirloom quality. I mean, hold this intricately engraved lipstick in your hands and you will feel regal. I promise!⁠⁣
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And it's not a superficial feeling. It's one borne from an authentic mastery of the crafts. ⁠⁣
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Florasis has assembled some of the best artists in China — including Zhou Chunyi, a Master of Miniature Carving, who has collaborated on these carved lipsticks that are inspired by Chinese relief sculpture. 💋👨‍🎨👨‍🎨💋⁠⁣
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The brand also sources local floral essences and medicinal plant extracts for its color cosmetics. These Love Lock lipsticks, for instance, contains extracts of Dendrobium Nobile (an orchid native to southern China) and lotus flower — two beauty ingredients that were highly prized by indigenous Chinese beauties. 🪷🪷🪷🪷🪷🪷⁠⁣
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I still haven't swatched this one because it's just too pretty to touch but I promise to get there soon 😭😭 ⁠⁣
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Till then, I will just take it out every once in a while and soak up the pure joy it brings me ❤️🥰⁠⁣
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However, other friends who have been able to get around to actually using them (heartbreak city!) tell me they are super pigmented, lightweight and wear for a long, long time without fading or feathering. ⁠⁣
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AND you don't need a passport to get your hands on one — they are available on Amazon (link in bio). 🗺️🌏️⁠⁣
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Would you buy a product and then tuck it away because you can't bear to spoil the way it looks? Or is that just me 🫣😳😵🥶⁠⁣
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#florasis #lovelocklipstick #lipstick #lipstickaddict #makeupfinds #engravedlipstick #instabeauty #redlipstick #lipsticklover #makeupphotography
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Buy a perfume and save the earth? Sounds lofty and no one product can actually undo the mess we have made of our planet. But kudos to brands that are trying.⁣
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One of my favorites is @guerlain, which supports the super-endangered bee population through its Guerlain for Bees Conservation Programme. Through this weekend, 20% of the brand's sales will go to the Programme, which runs bee schools, sustainability initiatives & supports beekeepers through the year.⁣
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A great fit, given the beauty brand's long association with bees — ever noticed that their iconic perfume bottles are adorned with a myriad of bees? ⁣
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[Scroll through for closeups — and click the link in bio for whole history of Guerlain and the bees. Trust me, it's FASCINATING.] ⁣
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But why are bees so important? Aren’t they just a pain? And can’t we just live without honey? 🤷🏻‍♀️⁣
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Well, when you consider that 90% of the world’s flowering plants & more than 35% of the food crops rely on these tiny, buzzy workers for pollination — and hence survival — do you still think we can live without them? ⁣
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It’s not just honey, it’s about EVERYTHING. The food we eat, the flowers we love, the life we enjoy. Basically, bees may be the third most important thing for humans after the sun & water. 🐝🐝⁣
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As Einstein said: “If the bee disappeared off the surface of the globe, man would only have four years of life left. No more bees, no more pollination, no more plants, no more animals, no more man.” 🌾🌺🥀🌻⁣
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And these bees ARE disappearing at a frightening rate. Think pesticides, deforestation, WiFi signals, mono-cropping… it’s all causing bees to die out. 🌍🌏⁣
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The problem is so serious that the United Nations has designated a World Bee Day (it’s today!). So, how can we help? Some of the easiest ways:⁣
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🐝 Buy raw honey from local farmers ⁣
🐝 Reduce the use of pesticides, fungicides or herbicides⁣
🐝 Get bee-friendly plants for your garden⁣
🐝 Leave a water bowl outside for the pollinators⁣
🐝 Support bee-conscious brands — my other favorites are @burtsbees, @trudon and @gisou ⁣
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And share this post to raise awareness... the decline of bees affects us all!⁣
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Drop a 🐝 in the comments if you agree!
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#currentvibes⁠⁣
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Or, as Lorelai Gilmore would say: "I can’t stop drinking the coffee. I stop drinking the coffee, I stop doing the standing, and the walking, and the words-putting-into-sentences doing.”⁠⁣
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#coffeeisinspiration #coffeeisselfcare ⁠⁣
#coffeelover #coffeeaddict #coffeegram #coffeelovers #coffeelove #coffeeislife #butfirstcoffee #coffeeholic ⁠⁣
#bossbabe #inspirationalquotes #positivethoughts ⁠⁣
#entrepreneurlife #mood #vibes ⁠⁣
#motivationalquotes #happiness @gilmoregirls #gilmoregirlscoffee #coffeequotes #coffeevibes #coffeeoftheday #coffeepeople #coffeeislove #coffeecommunity #coffeeplease
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If, like me, you think of perfumes as one of life’s little joyful luxuries, Lancôme’s new Oui, La Vie est Belle is a fragrance that will tick all your boxes. ⁣
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Oui, La Vie est Belle… Yes, Life is Beautiful. 💖💝⁣
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So beautiful that it’s like a shower of dazzling fireworks… etched in gold on the iconic bottle. ✨✨✨✨⁣
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So beautiful that it’s like the bottle which evokes the rounded imprint of a smile at the heart of a crystal square. ⁣
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So beautiful that it’s dressed with the juiciness of raspberries, underlined with uplifting patchouli and overflowing with happy, gorgeous flowers like the powdery Iris, seductive jasmine, opulent Damascene rose and spicy ylang-ylang. 🌹🏵🏵🌹⁣
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So beautiful that it makes me want to sparkle from the inside out. 🌟⭐️🌟✨⁣
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Oui, La Vie est Belle. Yes, life is beautiful. And this perfume has become my reminder of that uplifting, reaffirming fact every single day. It inspires me to take pleasure in the little moments. It lifts my spirits when things get tough. It shines and sparkles when I slip into a silk dress for a night out with friends. And it radiates pure bliss when I don my oldest PJs and snuggle up with a good book for a night all to myself.⁣
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Life is joyfully, utterly beautiful. So is this limited edition fragrance. I promise.⁣
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@lancomeofficial #Lancome #LaVieEstBelle #lancomeofficial #lancomeperfume #lancomeparis #lancomelavieestbelle #lancomebeauty #lancomehappiness
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