Stay safe in the sun: Top sunscreen ingredients to avoid

Two decades into the 21st century, we understand the absolute necessity of daily sunscreen to fight against dark spots, loss of elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles, sagging, skin cancer, and unforgiving sunburns

But, and this is a big but, while sunscreens are skincare superheroes, not all wear the perfect cape. Some harmful ingredients in sunscreens can enter the bloodstream and accumulate in the body in far higher concentrations than the Food and Drug Administration’s (FDA) safety threshold.

Yes, we are talking about those harmful ingredients in sunscreens that can cause health concerns ranging from hormonal imbalance and cancer to DNA changes and endocrine disruption.

They even show up in places like breast milk. Yikes!

Don’t want to deal with the health damage? Here are the chemical sunscreen ingredients to avoid. 

sunscreen ingredients to avoid

Oxybenzone: Taking top place in sunscreen ingredients to avoid

Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) might effectively absorb UV rays, but it is one of the most harmful ingredients in sunscreens and should be avoided. 

This chemical is linked to hormone disruption, allergic dermatitis, and cellular damage. Several studies have shown that oxybenzone is an endocrine disruptor and may increase the risk of breast cancer and endometriosis.

Moreover, when you swim or shower after applying sunscreen with oxybenzone, it enters the aquatic environment, which leads to coral bleaching. This process can eventually lead to coral death. It also accumulates in the tissues of various fish species and other marine creatures, affecting their reproduction and growth.

Because of environmental concerns, Palau, Aruba, Bonaire, and Hawaii have banned oxybenzone in sunscreens. Goodmove!

Octinoxate: Sunscreen’s secret saboteur

Another common culprit on top of the sunscreen ingredients to avoid list is octinoxate. 

Once this UV filter gets under your skin (literally!), it’s been found hanging around in blood levels 16 times above the proposed FDA safety threshold, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG)

Studies have shown this sneaky chemical has a knack for messing with our hormones, particularly affecting metabolic and thyroid functions. And if that’s not enough, it can cause allergic reactions when it meets UV radiation.

Plus, like its cousin oxybenzone, octinoxate is not friendly to coral reefs and marine life, an environmental impact that has led to several places banning these chemical filters outright.

Homosalate: The hormone disruptor

Homosalate, often found in chemical sunscreens, is another harmful ingredient that bioaccumulates in the body, disrupting the endocrine system and affecting hormonal health. 

The European Commission has raised eyebrows about its potential harm as well. They claim homosalate isn’t safe when used at concentrations up to 10%. Instead, they suggest keeping it to a maximum of 0.5% to avoid potential hormonal disruptions.

However, the FDA allows sunscreen makers to use it at levels up to 15% in the U.S. That’s quite a bit more!

So, when choosing a sunscreen, be mindful of its homosalate content and concentration. Better safe than sorry, right?

harmful sunscreen ingredients to avoid

Octocrylene: All is not clear

Octocrylene is a chemical sunscreen ingredient that is still up for debate. Some studies suggest it could be a troublemaker, causing skin allergies and potentially messing with our hormones. Yet, the European Commission gave it a thumbs-up, saying concentrations up to 10% are generally safe. 

But here’s the most crucial fact: Octocrylene levels can sneakily climb up when stored for a while. 

So, if you’re considering using sunscreen with this chemical, make sure it’s fresh off the shelf and definitely not that tube from the bottom of last summer’s beach bag. 

Methylisothiazolinone: The EU begs to differ

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) is a preservative, but the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) had concerns about its use in leave-on cosmetics due to potential skin sensitization and allergic reactions. They have only cleared it for rinse-off products, and that too up to 15 ppm.

And sunscreen? It’s a leave-on product so that MIT might be a concern when you’re looking for a safe sunscreen. The EWG also links MIT to allergies and potential neurotoxicity. Still, the FDA allows this chemical in cosmetics, including sunscreens, if they’re “non-sensitizing.” In this skincare mystery, always remember, “Consumer, beware!”

Avobenzone: The jury’s still out!

Avobenzone is another active ingredient whose safety in sunscreens is under debate. While the FDA considers it safe in SPF formulations, recent studies suggest it may interfere with the endocrine system, which regulates hormones. 

Additionally, when exposed to sunlight, Avobenzone starts breaking down and, in this process, could release skin-damaging free radicals. Which is precisely the opposite of what you want from sunscreen. Right?

importance of sunscreen

Nanoparticles: Still up for debate

Why are nanoparticles, often found in mineral sunscreens, considered harmful? They’re so tiny they could be absorbed through our skin into the bloodstream, potentially harming our cells and DNA.

On the flip side, other experts argue that we’re in a murky middle ground, saying that while there’s no solid evidence to label these nanoparticles as entirely safe, there’s no clear proof of harm either. Talk about mixed signals!

The International Agency for Research on Cancer adds to the puzzle, suggesting that inhaling titanium dioxide nanoparticles could be harmful. So, this would only apply to spray-on sunscreens that may get into the mouth or nostrils and not to topical products.

Parabens: The disruptive defender

Parabens, a common ingredient found in physical sunscreens, ward off bacteria and mold in personal care items to make the products last longer. 

However, they’ve been linked with hormonal imbalances and have been labeled potential endocrine disruptors by many studies. More alarmingly, some research hints at a possible connection to breast cancer.

As someone who’s already had a tryst with cancer, I’ve come to see these parabens as a no-go in my sunscreen. But I’m not here to make that decision for you. 

I want to share the facts—finally, your skin, your rules. So, you should take your own call on whether or not this is one of the sunscreen ingredients to avoid.

Phthalates: Performance enhancing… or not?

Phthalates enhance the performance of fragrances in many personal care products, including sunscreens. However, these sunscreen chemicals have been associated with hormonal and developmental problems along with respiratory issues such as asthma and allergies — which puts them front and center as harmful ingredients in sunscreens that should be kept off our skin. 

And the worst part? They often hide behind the term “fragrance” on ingredient lists, making them harder to spot. 

choosing safe sunscreen

Retinyl palmitate: Not so anti-aging after all

Retinyl palmitate might sound exotic or beneficial, like a form of vitamin A that promises to reduce signs of aging and enhance skin texture. However, this ingredient has a darker side for human health. 

Studies have hinted at a heightened risk of skin cancer associated with retinyl palmitate, especially when applied to the skin and subsequently exposed to sunlight. 

Seems ironic, right? Given that the primary job of your sunscreen is to protect you from the very same sun?

PABA: Keep out at all costs

PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) was one of the most common active ingredients in sunscreen products but it has largely fallen out of favor due to its potential to cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. 

While PABA is now rare in sunscreens, you should still be cautious and double-check ingredient labels. This one is right on top of the sunscreen ingredients to avoid at all times!

Triclosan: Banned but crops up sometimes!

Triclosan, an antibacterial agent, was also a staple in many skincare products, but recent findings have given it pause. The FDA cites studies indicating that triclosan may encourage antibiotic resistance. It also winds up in our rivers and lakes, where it can harm aquatic life. 

In 2016, the FDA banned triclosan from over-the-counter antiseptic washes. But the story gets a bit hazy here — it’s unclear if this ban extends to cosmetics. 

So, even as triclosan gets phased out, checking your sunscreen labels is smart. After all, there’s no harm in playing it safe, right?

how to choose the right sunscreen

9 best sunscreens without harmful chemicals

We’ve curated the top 9 sunscreens free from harmful ingredients so you can protect your skin while staying healthy. 

Each one of these SPF formulations is: 

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[lasso ref=”first-aid-beauty-weightless-liquid-mineral-sunscreen-with-zinc-oxide-spf-30-1-5-oz-44-ml” id=”23860″ link_id=”20128″]
[lasso ref=”tower-28-beauty-sunnydays-spf-30-tinted-sunscreen-foundation-18-montana-1-oz-30-ml” id=”23862″ link_id=”20129″]
[lasso ref=”biossance-squalane-zinc-sheer-mineral-face-sunscreen-spf-30-1-69-oz-50-ml” id=”23867″ link_id=”20131″]
[lasso ref=”supergoop-play-100-mineral-spf-stick-spf-50-67-oz-18-9-g” id=”23873″ link_id=”20133″]
[lasso ref=”ilia-c-beyond-triple-serum-spf-40-mineral-sunscreen-with-vitamin-c-10-niacinamide-translucent-tone-2-1-oz-30-ml” id=”23875″ link_id=”20134″]
[lasso ref=”josie-maran-get-even-sun-milk-spf-33-2-oz-60-ml” id=”23879″ link_id=”20135″]
[lasso ref=”dr-dennis-gross-skincare-instant-radiance-sun-defense-sunscreen-broad-spectrum-spf-40-light-medium-1-7-oz” id=”23887″ link_id=”20139″]
[lasso ref=”la-roche-posay-anthelios-tinted-sunscreen-spf-50-ultra-light-fluid-broad-spectrum-spf-50-face-sunscreen-with-titanium-dioxide-mineral-face-sunscreen-universal-tint-oil-free” id=”23889″ link_id=”20140″]

Do you consider it important to avoid harmful ingredients in sunscreens — especially now that you know their health impact?

About the author

Anubha Charan is a powerhouse in the luxury beauty industry, with over 15 years of expertise shaping the global beauty narrative. As the former Beauty Director at Marie Claire, she worked with the magazine's French headquarters to craft cutting-edge beauty content for international audiences.

Anubha's bylines have appeared in some of the world’s most prestigious publications, including Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Travel + Leisure, WebMD, and Architectural Digest. She is also the co-author of Paris Bath & Beauty, a Simon & Schuster book on French beauty rituals.

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One Comment

  1. Many thanks for the insightful information you provided. It has been difficult for me to come up with numerous queries pertaining to this matter. I shall walk in your footsteps!

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