Stay safe in the sun: Top sunscreen ingredients to avoid

Two decades into the 21st century, we understand the absolute necessity of daily sunscreen to fight against dark spots, loss of elasticity, fine lines, wrinkles, sagginess, and those unforgiving sunburns. Moreover, it’s our most formidable ally against skin cancer.

But, and this is a big but, all sunscreens are not our knights in shiny armor. Sometimes, lurking inside your trusted SPF bottle are less-than-friendly ingredients. 

Yes, we are talking about those harmful ingredients in sunscreens that can cause health concerns ranging from hormone disruption and cancer to DNA changes and allergies.

Thankfully, modern formulations offer safe alternatives. It’s simply a matter of checking product labels against a list of harmful ingredients.

To make this easier, I’ve dived into the world of dermatologists, general physicians, environmental specialists, and research papers. All so we can demystify this SPF puzzle.

Let’s identify these harmful ingredients in sunscreens and make safer choices. We can continue enjoying the sun, but let’s do so in an informed and healthy manner.

Chemical vs. physical sunscreens

To properly discuss harmful ingredients in sunscreens, we first need to understand that sunscreens are broadly classified as chemical or physical.

Chemical sunscreens absorb damaging UV radiation and convert it into harmless heat.

On the other hand, physical sunscreens (mineral sunscreens) operate as a protective barrier sitting on top of the skin, deflecting these harmful rays back into the atmosphere.

Both chemical and physical sunscreens come with their benefits and drawbacks, and each has certain ingredients that are best avoided. Let’s dive in!

Sunscreen ingredients to avoid: The chemical SPF version

While sunscreens are skincare superheroes, not all wear the perfect cape. Some harmful ingredients in sunscreens can enter the bloodstream and accumulate in the body in far higher concentrations than the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)’s safety threshold.

They even show up in places like breast milk. Yikes!

Don’t want to deal with the health damage? Here are the chemical sunscreen ingredients to avoid. 

Oxybenzone: The biggest troublemaker

Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) might effectively absorb UV rays, but it is definitely one of the most harmful ingredients in sunscreens and best kept at bay. 

This chemical is linked to hormone disruption, allergic dermatitis, and cellular damage. Several studies have shown that oxybenzone can cause endocrine disruption and may increase the risk of breast cancer and endometriosis.

Moreover, when you swim or shower after applying sunscreen with oxybenzone, it enters the aquatic environment, where it bleaches our vibrant coral reefs. This process can eventually lead to coral death. It also accumulates in the tissues of various fish species and other marine creatures, affecting their reproduction and growth.

Because of environmental concerns, places like Palau, Aruba, Bonaire, and Hawaii have banned oxybenzone in sunscreens. Good move!

Octinoxate: Sunscreen’s secret saboteur

Another common culprit on top of the sunscreen ingredients to avoid list is octinoxate. 

Once this UV filter gets under your skin (literally!), it’s been found hanging around in blood levels at 16 times above the proposed FDA safety threshold, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG). 

Animal studies have shown this sneaky chemical has a knack for messing with our hormones, particularly affecting metabolic and thyroid functions. And if that’s not enough, it can cause allergic reactions when it meets UV light.

Plus, like its cousin oxybenzone, octinoxate is no friend to our coral reefs and marine life — which has led to several places banning it outright.

Homosalate: The hormone hacker

Homosalate is another one of the most harmful ingredients in sunscreens that might wreak havoc on your hormonal balance. Research shows this hormone disruptor bio-accumulates in the body, disrupting the endocrine system and affecting your hormonal health. 

The European Commission has raised eyebrows about it as well. They claim homosalate isn’t safe when used at concentrations up to 10%. Instead, they suggest keeping it to a maximum of 0.5% to avoid potential hormonal disruptions.

However, the FDA allows sunscreen makers to use it at levels up to 15% in the U.S. That’s quite a bit more!

So, when choosing a sunscreen, be mindful of its homosalate content and concentration. Better safe than sorry, right?

Octocrylene: All is not clear

Octocrylene is a chemical sunscreen ingredient that is still up for debate. Some studies suggest it could be a troublemaker, causing skin allergies and potentially messing with our hormones. Yet, the European Commission gave it a thumbs-up, saying concentrations up to 10% are generally safe. 

But here’s the most crucial fact: Octocrylene levels can sneakily climb up when stored for a while. 

So if you’re considering using sunscreen that has this chemical, make sure it’s fresh off the shelf and definitely not that tube from the bottom of last summer’s beach bag. 

Methylisothiazolinone: The EU begs to differ

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) is a preservative, but the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) had concerns about its use in leave-on cosmetics due to potential skin sensitization and allergic reactions. They have only cleared it for rinse-off products, and that too up to 15 ppm.

So, sunscreen? It’s a leave-on product, so MIT might be a concern. The EWG also links MIT to allergies and potential neurotoxicity. Still, the FDA allows this chemical in cosmetics, including sunscreens, if they’re “non-sensitizing.” In this skincare mystery, always remember, “Consumer, beware!”

Avobenzone: The jury’s still out!

Avobenzone is another one of the active ingredients whose safety in sunscreens is under debate. While the FDA considers it safe in SPF formulations, recent studies suggest it may interfere with the endocrine system, which regulates hormones. 

Additionally, when exposed to sunlight, Avobenzone starts breaking down and, in this process, could release skin-damaging free radicals. Which is precisely the opposite that one wants from sunscreen. Right?

Sunscreen ingredients to avoid: The physical SPF version

As someone who is quite obsessive about skincare and sun exposure, I often turn to mineral sunscreens as a (usually) safer alternative to chemical ones. However, I’ve learned that not all mineral sunscreens are saints. 

Time, then, to examine the sunscreen ingredients to avoid in physical SPF formulations.

Nanoparticles: Still up for debate

Ever been at the heart of a heated debate? That’s where scientists and dermatologists are on the safety quotient of nanoparticles in sunscreens. These tiny molecules, particularly titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles, have been causing quite a stir. 

Why are nanoparticles considered harmful ingredients in sunscreen? They’re so tiny they could be absorbed through our skin into the bloodstream, potentially harming our cells and DNA.

On the flip side, other experts argue that we’re in a murky middle ground, saying that while there’s no solid evidence to label these nanoparticles as entirely safe, there’s no clear proof of harm either. Talk about mixed signals!

The International Agency for Research on Cancer adds to the puzzle, suggesting that inhaling titanium dioxide nanoparticles could be harmful. So, this would only apply to spray-on sunscreens that may get into the mouth or nostrils and not to topical products.

As a result, I’ve chosen to go the non-nano mineral sunscreens route, balancing safety and efficacy. But the debate is still a tie. So, the final decision on whether these are sunscreen ingredients to avoid? That’s up to you. 

Ingredients common to both chemical & physical sunscreens

It’s all too easy to scan the list of ingredients on your sunscreen and feel lost in the maze of scientific terminology. However, a few of those names you often see in physical and chemical formulations, like parabens and phthalates, deserve a closer look because they may not be as innocent as they seem.

Parabens: The disruptive defender

Parabens ward off bacteria and mold in personal care items to make the products last longer. 

However, they’ve been linked with hormonal imbalances and have been labeled potential endocrine disruptors by many studies. More alarmingly, some research hints at a possible connection to breast cancer.

As someone who’s already had a tryst with cancer, I’ve come to see these parabens as a no-go in my own sunscreen. But I’m not here to make that decision for you. I want to share the facts — finally, your skin, your rules. So, you should take your own call on whether or not this one is one of the sunscreen ingredients to avoid.

Phthalates: Performance enhancing… or not?

Phthalates enhance the performance of fragrances in many personal care products, including sunscreens. However, they have been associated with hormonal and developmental problems along with respiratory issues such as asthma and allergies — which puts them front and center as harmful ingredients in sunscreens that should be kept off our skin. 

And the worst part? They often hide behind the term “fragrance” on ingredient lists, making them harder to spot. 

Retinyl palmitate: Not so anti-aging after all

Retinyl palmitate might sound exotic or beneficial, like a form of vitamin A that promises to reduce signs of aging and enhance skin texture. However, there’s a darker side to this ingredient. 

Studies have hinted at a heightened risk of skin cancer associated with retinyl palmitate, especially when applied to the skin and subsequently exposed to sunlight. 

Seems ironic, right? Given that the primary job of your sunscreen is to protect you from the very same sun?

PABA: Keep out at all costs

PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid) was a common sunscreen ingredient, but it has largely fallen out of favor due to its potential to cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. 

While PABA is now rare in sunscreens, you should still be cautious and double-check ingredient labels. This one is right on top of the sunscreen ingredients to avoid at all times!

Triclosan: Banned but crops up sometimes!

Triclosan, an antibacterial agent, was also a staple in many skincare products, but recent findings have given it pause. The FDA cites studies indicating that triclosan may encourage antibiotic resistance. Besides this, it also winds up in our rivers and lakes, where it can harm aquatic life. 

In 2016, the FDA banned triclosan from over-the-counter antiseptic washes. But the story gets a bit hazy here — it’s unclear if this ban extends to cosmetics. So, even as triclosan gets phased out, checking your sunscreen labels is smart. After all, there’s no harm in playing it safe, right?

Fragrance: A mixed cocktail

Fragrances in sunscreens, or any skincare product, can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, they make your products smell gorgeous, turning your skincare routine into a sensory experience. But on the other hand, this sweet-smelling ingredient isn’t always everyone’s best friend.

Here’s the crux: Fragrances are a well-known culprit behind contact dermatitis. So, if your skin is sensitive or prone to allergies, fragrance might ruffle its feathers, causing irritation or reactions like redness or itching. 

Also, remember that “fragrance” on a product label could refer to a cocktail of different chemicals. Some of these might be kept hush-hush due to trade secret laws, and a few could be less than kind to your skin.

However, and here’s the crucial point, fragrance in sunscreen isn’t an automatic red flag. If your skin happily tolerates fragrances, and the smell of your sunscreen brings joy to your skincare routine, then by all means, enjoy it! 

The key is to know your skin and how it reacts. After all, sunscreen should be a delight, not a dilemma.

Shining the light on safer alternatives

But don’t worry! Choosing sunscreen might seem like you’re wading through a sea of potentially harmful ingredients. Still, I assure you that it doesn’t have to be daunting. 

And there are several safer, skin-loving alternatives to all those sunscreen ingredients to avoid. So, let’s go SPF shopping together.

Physical sunscreen > chemical sunscreen

Firstly, let’s put mineral-based sunscreens on top of our list.

Why, you ask? Their main ingredients — zinc oxide or titanium dioxide — don’t sneak under our skin but rather sit on top, reflecting harmful UV rays (both UVA and UVB). It’s like having a personal mirror shield for your skin!

Non-nano matters

Another term you should remember is “non-nano zinc oxide.” When you see this on a label, give yourself a high-five because it means the zinc oxide particles are too large to be absorbed into your bloodstream, reducing any toxicity risk.

Read the label

So, next time you’re about to slather on your sunscreen, take a moment to read the label. Understanding what’s in your products is the first step towards making informed choices about what you put on your skin (and in your bloodstream).

Remember, every label you read is a step towards making an informed decision about avoiding harmful ingredients in sunscreens — a step towards the safety of you and this planet, our shared home.

16 best sunscreens without harmful chemicals

We’ve curated the top 16 sunscreens free from harmful ingredients, so you can protect your skin while staying healthy. 

Each one of these SPF formulations is: 

• Safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin
• Provides broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays

Check out the curation to find the perfect fit for you.

Do you consider it important to avoid harmful ingredients in sunscreens — especially now that you know their health impact?